DIY Anti-IC project


I'm sold on Speltz Anti-Cable and Anti-IC products; they're great. First tried a set of biwire cables for my Magnepan speakers (bought the wire bulk from Speltz @ $1.25 per foot and using in twisted format with no termination), then a 1/2-meter set of Anti-ICs for between preamp & amp (TAD-150 and 60 respectively). Later I decided to install another set of the ICs between CD player and preamp, and inquired about buying the IC wire in bulk form in order to make'em myself (construction of these looked easy enough), but was told this particular gauge of wire is not available for purchase separately.

So, I was on the verge of ordering another 1/2-meter set, then one night while listening had a brainstorm: Why not construct a set of "super" Anti-ICs from the heavier gauge Anti-Cable speaker wire? Since my amp sits on top of the preamp, a 16" pair would be more than enough length, and then I could use the 1/2-meter set I already owned for between CD & preamp. So, I ordered 10' of bulk Anti-Cable from Speltz and (4) Neutrik RCA connectors from Parts Express ($1.75 each). I spiraled the cable around a 3/8" dowel rod, and used a single run of wire through the middle to complete each cable. Upon substitution of my newly-concocted "Anti-IC Plus" interconnects for the standard Speltz version, there was an immediately noticeable improvement in bass depth and impact, along with increased dynamics throughout the range and a bigger and more open sound stage.

I would not have written about this if the difference were less than subtle, in fact, I am one that is not a big believer in "cables can make a difference" (old-school engineering mentality) - But for the cost of $20 for the materials needed to make these interconnects, I urge any DIY'er to give it a shot - You'll like'em. (Email me for a photo of the finished cables if curious.) -Gary
ggeers222
I never have time to even read forums like this, let alone actually reply to one, but a customer pointed out this one, and it caught my interest.

Shortly after I introduced the Anti-Cables 5 years ago, happy customers continuously asked for interconnects from me. Naturally, the first thing I tried was the #12 gauge Anti-Cable speaker wire as interconnects, but it didn't fly. Very dumbed down (low resolution). Transients time smeared. Slow and dark. I suppose if a system had an overly excitable high frequency zip, using thick copper interconnect wire may be a good way to counteract the imbalance. For example, the Cambridge Audio 840C is spouted as the best CD player under $5,000, for only $1,600.

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CA840C

You will notice there always seems to be a half a dozen of these used on AudioGon. After guys figure out the 840C CD player has an artificially excitable top end zip, they sell them. One of the ways to deal with this CD player's "coloration" is to use cables to help color it back towards neutral. This are things I have tried, and it works.

I am more interested in making cables that neutral and transparent and allow you to hear how good the components really sound, but in doing so sometimes you can hear more then you might want to hear in a particular system.

Occasionally, I custom make Anti-ICs for customers that need to add a bit more musical "body" in their system. I do this by using a heavier gauge signal wire, but this does come at the expense of doing some time smearing of the music's transients (which quickly makes music sound like a "stereo system" to me). To give you some perspective, using #12 wire (as Gary has), is using 16 times more copper then even this "heavier" gauge version of mine... Wow!

With both speaker wires and interconnect wires, there seems to be a sweet spot for the wire gauge size, I call it "current density". Use to much copper for the amount of current the wire is caring and the music gets time smeared. Use to little copper for the amount of current the wire is caring and bass weight, dynamics, and musical body get lost. I spent two years finding the generally accepted current density sweet spot for the Anti-IC.

It's quite interesting the results Gary got using #12 interconnects in his system. I do understand it leaning towards bass, but a bigger soundstage I have no explanation for... interesting.

I think it is great that Gary is experimenting. This is a great hobby, and experimenting is a lot of fun. I am continuously experimenting myself, as this is how we learn.

I am truly grateful for having such great customers.

I apologize in advance if I don't have a chance to chime in again.

Thanks!

Paul Speltz
Hey there Paul - I thought this may get back to you sooner or later... All I can say is, c'mon over and listen to my system - Comparing my home-brews to my stock Anti-ICs installed between my tube preamp & amp is no contest - I don't hear any dumbing-down of resolution or slowing of transients; only an improvement in these attributes - I do believe that you have done a lot of testing to find the best balance in overall performance, but my "experiment" has proved quite worthy in my system (not trying to save money, either; I think Speltz products are one of the best deals in high end audio). Maybe it's because mine are very short runs; who knows - My original concept was to create a non-cable "buss bar" between amp & preamp, and I think I've done it. But as they say, your mileage may vary :) -Gary
I found a similar result fiddling with DIY Pre-Out Amp-In jumpers. Using a single strand of solid copper from AudioQuest Type-4 was OK, but the same RCA's with a single strand of solid copper CAT-5 wire of same length was the best; clearer and faster sounding. Could it be 'too much skin for the skin effect'? (insulation left on for both types)

One would think that wires less than 3 inches would have little if no effect, but it was quite apparent on my MAC 1900 receiver.