Frogman, This is the September 97, issue; Wes Phillips is the reviewer, and the context is in regard to the music, not the instrument.
On my first post, that paragraph is from the magazine; they gave "Moanin" to Benny Golson.
Preceding this sentence, they spoke of Morgan's rich tone. "It sounds as though Timmons is playing a less than stellar piano, but the power of Blakey's drums, which drive the show, is especially well rendered- with lots of room sound and natural decay."
Since he spoke of "Morgan's rich tone", before "stellar piano" and the power of Blakey's drums, after "stellar piano". We clearly have the musicians performance before and after "stellar piano"; therefore it's impossible for me to assume that's in reference to an out of tune piano, although it's possible.
Enjoy the music.