No deep bass or highs: VTF or VTA issue?

I've had the pleasure of meeting Nick and heard a TT he set up - both were wonderful. While I like learning about setup myself so I can tinker, try other cartridges, etc, I have no doubt that he'd nail it. Unfortunately I live at least 4 hours away.

I did have another setup person drop by months ago (before this cartridge) who filled up my damping reservoir (at the time I had no idea what it was for). Reading the Walker setup guide I'm wondering if I have too much fluid.

Elinor: I've used the VPI strobe disc to set the speed, but I did it right after changing the platter so I'm due to re-check it; thanks for mentioning it. I don't think my stylus is damaged.

Anyone know of a good LP to compare to digital? With the variability of mastering, I'd like to choose something that brings me closer to comparing apples to apples.

Again, thanks for all the responses.

Many good observations already.

Dan's Rhea (which he, Swampwalker and I all heard in my system) was indeed limited at the frequency extremes and that may be what you're experiencing. Two friends who've compared Aesthetix and Steelhead reported a stronger (though somewhat "steely") top end from the Manley. Tighter, less "rosey" sounding tubes might help, though I've no experience rolling tubes in a Rhea.

I agree with Dan that the XV-1S is certainly not inherently dark or rolled off. I've only heard 2 or 3 cartridges with a more open and clear top end. Question: is your stylus REALLY clean? A mucked up stylus will sound subdued or dark exactly as you described.

As Dan also suggested, you may be playing with a hair too much downforce (and perhaps antiskating too, if you're applying any). Either or both of these can smother the top end of a good LOMC. A dealer visit might help, but learning to fine tune yourself by ear is essential - unless you're going to pay the dealer to visit weekly. Cartridges at this level require regular attention to perform at their best. The link Rushton provided is very useful.

Alternatively, try setting/twisting antiskating to near zero, then take VTF down to near the mistracking point (or until bass/dynamics weaken slightly). Then bring VTF back up in TINY increments (.02g or less) until bass and dynamics are strong, but HF's haven't start rolling off. That VTF should be optimal but it may change over time or even with the weather, so you may need to adjust from time to time.

All this said, I'm afraid your table and arm are not going to provide the HF extension, speed and clarity of the highest quality digital or a top level table/arm. Not even a hotrodded HRX + JMW 12.x can do that. It's possible that making these comparisons is training your ears to recognize that. We all know where this leads, so stop comparing or be prepared to receive ever more costly advice from your fellow 'goners! ;-)

Your anaogue rig is still not "cheese whiz" and I, for one, am amazed that you say CD's sound better. Definitely start from scratch and readjust that table until it's optomized before you spend additional $$$ on anything. It may be your phono stage, but you should still be getting excellent souond out of what you have, with a little effort.

Good luck,
Bob

Could it be the bass response on the DAC coming through clearly on the new sub? One thing consistently written about this DAC is the dynamic bass response - now you have a sub perhaps you are hearing the full impact?

It's a good call to find good CD/LP reference recordings. I wouldn't trust any but those made by the same company and preferably from a company that can be relied upon for good sound such as Audioquest. A good choice might be Mighty Sam McLain GIve It Up to Love, or something more acoustically based depending on your taste.

Once you've appropriate discs to compare then you can effectively follow Doug'sexcellent advice.