Replace C28 with... ?


In my previous thread regarding a power amp, some of you commented that replacing the McIntosh C28 preamp would make a huge difference. However, what was missing was any elaboration how why you made the recommendation, and with what to replace it.

So, let’s get down to it.
McIntosh C28
HiFiBerry DAC+ Pro (Yes, I know... sacrilege, but it’s all I’ve got for now)
Bryston 4BST
Dahlquist DQ10
Polk PSW650 sub

Need guidance from you guys on whether I ought to be looking at SS, Tube or even a Passive unit. Since I have some skill with a soldering iron, I'm not above entertaining the idea of a kit.

I’ve seen the Tortuga LDRx and that concept looks pretty interesting. My worry is that the DQ10s can be a bit aggressive on the high end with that ribbon tweeter, so I’d like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks again in advance!
parabolic

Not sure why the Krell manual states that both should not be used at the same time.  It looks like the traces on the board just connect the two outputs together (like a Y-splitter cable) as shown in the upper left part of the following picture:  

http://img.usaudiomart.com/uploads/large/1027567-krell-krc3-vintage-preamp-at-its-best-legendary-krell-sound.jpg

It may be an issue with driving two different types of amplifier impedances, not sure. The other alternative would be to use a Y-splitter cable, which is doing the same thing and you have multiple cable connectors that are degrading the audio quality.  I say that you should just try connecting both XLR and RCA outputs and see how it goes.

I suppose you could use the RCA input/out of the Polk subwoofer to connect on to the Bryston amp, but you'll definitely be losing sound quality here.

If you have any interest, I would be willing to do the re-cap job for the cost of the components plus shipping plus $100-150 labor (depending on what you wanted done).  It's probably a couple hours of work for me.  If you don't have a good desoldering gun, it can be extremely difficult to remove solder and dis-attach the capacitors.  It is easy to pull up traces on the circuit board if you are not able to melt the solder enough - and you've just destroyed a $1000 item. lol. Sometimes you have to re-apply new solder and re-melt the contacts to get all the solder hot enough so that it lets go of the capacitor leads. 

Oh, expect to have a burn in time of about 250 hours with those Muse capacitors. 

Might just take you up on that offer, but not immediately. I think I’ll wait and see what changes the new preamp brings for a while, at least. Having borrowed the C28 back from my friend (it was out on loan for a while) I can tell you that I’m enjoying the HELL out of the new Bryston amp compared to the old SAE.

Right now I’m listening to Linda Rhonstadt / Nelson Riddle ’Round Midnight’ and it’s a dramatic improvement in every way. For example, the SAE used to put an edge on her voice and particularly in those long held notes there would be a brassy, shrill ’ringing’ that seemed to get stuck in the amp, and would just exhaust the hell out of me. Now? Gone.

Anyway, stay tuned. Send me your contact info so we can discuss sidebar.
Wow.

What a tremendous difference.  If the Bryston really made a huge improvement, the KRC-3 took it to the next level.  Far better imaging, much more fluid midrange... a huge change.

Looks like the C28 will be going up for sale shortly.  Shame to let her go, but I'm sure someone will give it a good home.

Thanks to all for your input.