Speaker plinth material bottom ported Zu Omen Defs

Btw, I’ll be keeping the speaker feet intact so GAP between speaker would be the same as current gap

Well, I think the only way is to try it. If it turns out too bright, you could add a bit of felt or maybe a piece of carpet over the marble.
But, you might just give Zu a call to get their take on it. They do answer calls. I believe his name is Gerrit.
Bob

Thanks for reminding me about ZU's great customer service. I wish I thought of that earlier and called last week. I will call or write ZU after New year. I was fine with the bass response upstairs for the last 5 years (oak wood floors). An actually fine with the bass response now (Bamboo hardwood flooring). So I would probably be fine with a plinth of either wood. Just curious if their is an optimal wood or material for such a use (with bottom slotted ports on speaker). I use to correspond with Sean Casey quite a bit a few years ago. I'll dig out his email address.

From what you wrote, you do not have a problem, but you imagination has run wild.  If your basement is bone dry, then stop worrying.
On a technical note, your plinth, unless it's enormous, will effectively be invisible to the frequencies coming out of the port.  By raising the Zu you will hinder its bass performance.

Thanks for info. I think you are right, I’m paranoid from a flood many years ago. So the plinth does not take place of the floor since it’s solid?

As an owner of an old house that occasionally get water in the basement, I can understand your concern.
I would think raising them might change the leveling/angle of the speakers, but bass performance should not be affected.
Bob

My only concern would be that the tweeters will be higher by a few inches.

As they are only 12" x 12" you should be able to just pick up a couple of cutting boards in Maple or Bamboo at a local store like Ikea or online at Amazon.

@stereo5 ,
That's why I said he might have to re-angle them.
Or, maybe raise his seating as well. It would keep it dry should he get a leak.
There are wifi alarms that would alert you should moisture be present.
Bob

I am a bit confused with the speaker placement as described by the OP.  

I own the Zu Dirty Weekender floor standers.  I always thought that the speakers had to be raised some minute amount off the floor, so as not to block the bottom slot ports.  I do not use the supplied spikes.  I had read somewhere or heard on one of Zu's YouTube videos to use marbles to allow some breathing room for those ports.

I live in a pre-war apartment house on a busy street and had been using 12" x 12" tiles of neoprene and cork under my speakers for vibration control.  Since acquiring the Zu's, I have used the neoprene and cork 4" pads.  

Flush to the floor or on a plinth, the Dirty Weekenders sounded slightly muffled.  With the pads, the speakers sound much better (obviously).  I use 3 pads per speaker (2 front, 1 rear). 

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/fasteners/vibration-isolators/pads/neoprene-cork-pad-4-x-4-x-1

Rich 

@rar1 ,
Unless something has changed, Zu always recommends leaving about 1/4 inch gap between the bottom of the speaker and the floor for their bottom ported speakers.
I see those plinths you are using have a waffle design, which may be allowing the speakers to resonate better. I would try adding the spikes to give them a little more clearance.
Bob

Hi Bob - 

Because I am using the smaller 4 inch square tiles as footers and centering them near the corners of the speaker (where you would screw in spikes), I am getting the clearance I need.  Ports are happy.    

It was when I was using the full 12 inch tile that I was in essence adding another floor to the face of the port, which obviously hurt the sound.

Unless I misread the OP's original post, he was thinking of using a granite or wood plinth.  I was just not sure how that would be any different than direct floor placement, unless of course spikes are used.

Thanks for the reply.

Rich 

 

Basically I’m adding a block of wood or something on the floor. Taking the speaker as is and lifting on top of the wood or whatever. I’m maintaining the same gap ( using the floor spikes) that I am currently. 

A wooden plinth will wick up moisture and could cause condensation on the bottom of your speakers.Another thing to investigate would be a paint on exterior waterproofing product for the speaker bottoms.

Why isn’t there moisture now? There’s a vapor barrier between concrete and wood floor? So if speaker is on spikes on top of the plinth, I don’t see the difference. I guess I could put small feet on the plinth

Well if you are open to a $13 solution, this may be a way to go.  These are the 2 inch version of the pads that I was referring to.  Essentially a rubber and cork sandwich.  Should work with the spikes.  

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTI-VIBRATION-ISOLATION-PADS-2-X-2-X-7-8-RIBBED-RUBBER-WITH-CORK-CENTER-V/...

Rich 

I wrote Sean at Zu. I'm looking forward to hearing his thoughts. 

Don't forget about Herbie's. He has lots of nice isolation products that don't cost an arm and a leg and really work.
+1 for contacting Zu. Nothing like from the horse's mouth.
Bob