This question is aimed to TRUE Elec Engineers, not fuse or wire directionality believers.



Has any of you ACTUALLY worked with and recommend a SSR which does not introduce any audible distortion on the speaker line and which can operate with a large range of trigger voltages (12 - 48 VDC, may need to have on board voltage regulator for this range).  I am building a speaker DC protector and do not want to use electro mechanical relays becoz of DC arcing and contact erosion issues.  It needs to be capable of switching up to 15 amps at about 100 volts.

Only TRUE engineers reply please.

Thanks

128x128cakyol
I would recommend getting any older full sized soundcraftsman amp And take it apart.   if your goal is to kill the dc at the rails before it reaches the speakers they did this back in the 80s 
crydom D2450 it has 50A at 240V and yes when control voltage drops below 3V it will disconnect.
Control voltage between 3-32V
Hope I don't get into hot water here for the link.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-VHC-1-SPDT-Vacuum-Relay-26-VDC-for-RF-Switching/390332847631?hash=item5...

These could be triggered by a conventional circuit. I've used them to handle a couple kilowatts of RF. Trigger time is in the low milliseconds.
There may even be quicker ones. Contacts are vacuum sealed and very tough. There are RF types and high current DC types. Either should handle anything you can throw at them.
Anyone, living under the delusion that the NON-POLARIZED FILTER CAPS, used to block low frequencies from tweeters, WON’T PASS DC, needs to try measuring the voltage of a battery in series with one. That’s assuming you own a multimeter(or voltmeter).
@rodman99999
Without a load it will appear that the cap is passing a voltage in your example. The voltmeter, which is typically 10 megohms, is high enough impedance that it will appear as if the cap is passing voltage, but if there were any significant load you would not see anything like this.

In fact a non-polar will block DC quite effectively- and protect a tweeter from DC coming from an amplifier. The problem with non-polar caps is that they are actually two electrolytics in series. As a result, they make distortion in both directions since electrolytics can draw considerable current if reverse biased.
Now if you took two electrolytics and put them in series ('back to back', so to speak, which is how a non-polar is built) but then **also** biased their junction with a DC voltage, as long as the AC waveform going through them has less amplitude then the DC voltage (thus keeping them forward biased) they can be as low distortion as a good film cap.

Electrolytics have a bad reputation as coupling caps but they can work quite well if one understands how they work.