Xover parts quality,/sound difference?

JD: I wasn't suggesting that you ( or anyone else ) ask my ( or anyone else's )specific advice on anything. What i was suggesting was that if someone is going to make major changes within their system and / or modify a primary component within their systems, it might be a good idea to ask for comments before doing so. Not only may it help by learning from others experiences, it may also bring about discussions on other subjects that pertain, but may not be directly related to.

This not only keeps the forums interesting due to the variety of subjects that come up, but may also give us more food for thought as to how one change can alter the performance of inter-related components. After all, i think that most of us are after better sound. While changing parts ( as you did ) may provide better sound, why not learn how to implement those changes in the most optimum manner that we as a group can arrive at? Knowing what is involved in such a project before attempting it will typically result in less effort with better results most every time.

We have a great "think tank" here with a lot of various experience at our disposal. Even if we don't always agree, why not use it to all of our advantages? This is why i encourage rebuttal to my posts and the information provided, as i too want to learn from others and better understand other vantage points.

Having said that, i do a LOT of research of my own via the Agon and AA forums. This is not to mention the vast amount of technical info available across the web. Many of the tidbits / items that i share here were culled from information that i learned from various posts / resources available to me. Granted, not every source is 100% factual and / or scientifically verifiable, hence the necessity for us to use our own brains and sort through what pertains to our individual situations and what doesn't.

Either way, i'm glad that things worked out well for you. I hope that you took this as intended i.e. a general offer to help a "regular" contributor to these forums. After all, if this hobby / industry is to continue moving forward, it will only do so by the efforts that we as a group can muster and share. Sean
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Sean, this is an excellent thought. I too have a desire to have everyone's ideas and learn as a group. I think sometimes I avoid this step simply tiring of the off color contributors. I have not been a real patient member in this regard, and often leave the site because of it. This is my personal problem, not the sites problem.

This remains my favorite place to hang, I guess I have just become reluctant to become involved in open ended forums where learning is not always the goal of those posting. In specifics I was hoping to avoid the comments like "Parts do not matter, Why waste your time with THOSE speakers? THOSE capacitors are simply over priced hype..."

As I said this is my problem I have struggled with over the years here. This topic is worth a full research and I agree I would have learned more.

As always Sean my friend, I have never taken offence by any comment you have made towards me, you my friend are class A.

Jade

To those with experience, is there any advantage to moving the crossover outside the speaker's cabinet?

Dbld, This is a very good question. The short answer is yes. If you are to consider the improvements made on solid state electronics from isolation cones, bearings and shelf material then certainly the vibration filled environment of a speaker is worse. Many people have claimed very large improvements with an outboard crossover, but I have not yet tried this.

I have been considering building an outboard wood box for my crossover that would have binding posts for the speaker cable, and then using another set of binding posts for each of the three drives. (tweeter, mid-ranges and woofers) The speaker would then have yet another set of posts for each driver. The reason for this clumsy setup would be for experimenting with different wire types, gauges and configurations to optimize the sonics. I could for instance use solid gold for the tweeter (I have found gold is perfect) and some combination of wire types and gauges for the mid-range and then maybe silver for the woofer. I figure if speaker cables make such a difference, than I should discover the best wire for each driver.

The point would be to tune the speakers with short affordable wire. If I discovered an affordable combination I could the re-wire those drives based on the results of this experiment.

I expect to try this out over the winter, so if anyone has thoughts...

jd

I found that it works well.. But can't say direct comparison wise, because fact is the only reason I have had to move them out of the cabinet was physically if your gonna use the Best parts available they are literaly 5 times the size of a cheap computer grade board and parts in most of these designs... For example, I did a pair for a friend, they had about 5" X 3.5" x 1.5" boards that maybe weighed 1 lb or so.. Well the EXACT same values of caps, Inductors, Resistors etc.. Of the highest quality we could get our hands on took up a minimum board of 12"(1 ft) X 9", and had to take up about 5" Height on top of it.. So we had to move them to a dedicated cabinet that with those parts weighed about 12 lbs... They were decent sized Cubes for sure.

Even if you have the space to fit such a huge difference in size you could probably knock the speaker out of Volume specs for the drivers if they share a chamber with it. Just a point to make, but I keep it safe if your gonna do an actual upgrade then build them outside for ease of everything, and yes maybe vibration control will be an added benefit, but just pulling them out for fun, I don't know, I would probably not mess with it.