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Scanspeak 10" driver replacement - blown woofer

Hi, I have to replace 2 10" drivers on a pair of Vandersteen 3a's. The drivers are 25w aluminum cone, and the voice coils are fried. Vandersteen will rebuild for 289 each.

Question: Is there a comparable replacement on the market that would be cheaper then the rebuild, and close in performance? I found a company, Madisound speaker components, which sells many 10" drivers from 37.00 - 355.00

I have hooked the speakers back up and have found the bass to be insane with the big 10" hole in the back, apparently in the design the 10" drivers act as acoustic couplers, part passive radiator and part driver. I placed a large book over the holes and the bass is instantly tighter, but not as deep as they used to be.

How important is the quality of these acoustic couplers?
Would a SEAS presitige aluminum woofer be as good at 165.00?
Would I hear the difference?

I know it's impossible for you guys to answer all these questions, I am just trying to paint a picture of where my head is at. Have any of you had to replace your woofers with aftermarket products? What brand did you choose? and how did it work out?

Thanks again,
Mike
hanaleimike
shadorne's avatar
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shadorne
7,333 posts
 
With cheaper drivers you should simply replace them with new drivers. Make sure you get the same model driver. Only high quality drivers ($500+ each) are usually worth re-coning.
elevick
2,439 posts
 
A guy outside of Pittsburgh is awesome and inexpensive but a little slow. Google: tristate loudspeaker in aliquippa PA. I'm sure he is wayyyy less money.
gregm
3,021 posts
 
I don't know what driver is used in yr Vandy. Write Madisound and ask them for a suitable replacement driver. They are a reputable outfit. As Shadorne noted, it's not worth re-coning cheapo drivers.
face
516 posts
 
Using a different driver could throw your speaker's balance off. Search for a replacement or have it repaired.
rodman99999
3,557 posts
 
Any aftermarker speaker reconer(unless an authorized warranty station) will be using Waldom parts with which to affect the repair. Your speakers will never sound the same(or even close) if this course is taken. Unless you replace the driver(it's not simply a passive radiator) with an OEM piece; the design cannot function as intended. It's Thiel/Small parameters play a major part in it's functioning properly, and MUST be matched exactly for optimum performance in the Vandy's alignment. Then again; since you've toasted the voicecoils, it may be that the system wasn't providing enough bottom to satisfy you(have you boosted/EQ'ed your bass somehow?), and a more efficient/sturdier driver would serve you better there.
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