Tracking error distortion audibility


I recently unpacked my turntable from a couple of years of storage. It still sounds very good. Several times during playback of the first few albums I literally jumped from my chair to see which track was playing as it sounded so great. After a while I realized the "great" sound was always at one of the "null" points. They seem to occur at the approximately the proper place (about 125mm from spindle) and near the lead out groove. Questions:
Is this common? I have improved the resolution of my system since the table's been in storage but I don't remember hearing this before.
All others geometric sources of alignment error not defined by the null points (VTA, azimuth etc.) are essentially constant through out the arc correct? If so they should cancel out. I assume the remedy is a linear tracking arm but I am surprised at how obviously better the sound is at these two points.
Table - AR ES-1, Arm - Sumiko MMT, Cart. - Benz Glider, Pre - Audible Illusions, Speakers - Innersound electrostatic hybrid
Do linear arms really sound as good across the whole record as I hear at only the nulls with my set-up?
feathed
Hi all,
I'm getting a bit late into the fray of it all. I have the SAME inner groove distortion issue, AND every recipe that's been kicked around was tried, and failed.
Set-up is bit easier in my case I guess, since I sport an almost brand new SME-V arm, Peer Windfeld cart that's well played-in ~ 1/2 year on an SME-10 tt, ML326S phono-boards with SUT! Pass 350.5, Burmester 961 Mk3. So, call it high resolution is why I go into it.

I can move over-hang on the fly, VTA pretty much so, Azimuth is fixed on the V, and it IS ok (checked by mirror method), VTF has been tried as has been, also on the fly anti-skate. -------- AND I still have inner groove distortion. Marvellous reproduction every where else but through the last ~ 25% on the inside. I do understand the respondent arguing if he like me has tried all of that USUALLY brought up set-up stuff. Tried it all, nothing works!

Einstein once said: To keep on doing the same thing over and over, and expect different results -- IS THE SIGN OF INSANITY!

So, In also recall very well that the analogue fundi of Image-HiFi Mag. Dirk Sommer has been moaning about those "dreaded inner groove distortions" again!
Hallo, there is a guy on the level with M. Fremmer saying this?! How so?

Now my good Audio friend tried to fix his inner groove distortion --- and got it fixed beautily! Now he has OUTER GROOVE DISTORTION! Whow, not my idea of a fix either.

Why do I mention this? HE CAN'T SEEM TO HEAR IT!?!
So I think, it also has to do with hearing, like e.g. sibilants, and of course the higher you system resolution the more you CAN (or aught to) hear it.

Lastly I have a notion (but can not prove it) that it is EXACTLY this issue that make folks go for 10.5" - 12" tonearms.
(I'm sure we do not need to explain the geometry differences here)

Greetings...
Axelwahl,

What you are describing is NOT normal and does NOT have to be accepted. New or used arm doesn't matter. If one can't set up a 9" arm correctly, one probably can't set up a 12" arm correctly either.
Axelwahl,

Sorry for your sonic pain. I've no doubt you hear exactly what you describe. I used to hear it too. I don't now, ever, and I agree with Dan_ed. Inner (or outer) groove distortion does not have to be accepted.

There's at least one thing you didn't mention and presumably haven't tried (because your tonearm won't let you?). You haven't done a really good alignment of your cantilever zenith angle. This requires a headshell with room for movement (ie, slots) and a truly good protractor.

Sliding an SME back and forth moves the null points, which is why you can shift the distortion from inside grooves to outsidge grooves, but it doesn't change the overall alignment scheme to one that eliminates distortion at both extremes. For that you need a top quality protractor designed to such a scheme and a tonearm that will let you use it.

Until you have the right tools, you'll continue to beat your head against this wall.

Axelwahl,
I just finished re-aligning my Air Tight PC1 in my SME V arm using the MINTLP TRACTOR. I learned much in the process. First, contrary to what I've read about the SME V, cartridge zenith is slightly adjustable. When I noticed through the 10x loupe that the cantilever was not parallel to the thick MINT lines I was able to rotate the cartridge about 3 degrees by loosening the mounting screws and turning the cartridge until it lined up with the markings on the MINT. Second, azimuth can also be slightly adjusted by tilting the arm base before tightening the set screws. Though more modern arm designs like the Graham Phantom and the Tri-Planar are much more easily adjusted, the SME V can be adjusted in all of these areas for what I have found to be near-perfect alignment.

The MINT arc-style protractor is an excellent tool for alignment. I'm not experienced enough to know if proper alignment will solve your tracking problem, but rest assured, your SME V can be properly adjusted for excellent alignment. I have found that after I adjust anything on my arm, I have to recheck the armtube distance to the spindle with that SME supplied plastic guide. Good Luck.
Peter
Axelwahl,
I have a 10" Continuum Copperhead and a 12" DaVinci Ref Grandezza mounted on my Raven AC-3 and I can hear no increased distortion on the Copperhead over the DaVinci on the same recordings.
I agree with Dan_ed that without correct alignment, the 12" arm will sound just as poorly as the shorter one without correct alignment.