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Building high-end 'tables cheap at Home Despot II

“For those who want the moon but can't afford it or those who can afford it but like to have fun and work with their hands, I'm willing to give out a recipe for a true high-end 'table which is easy to do, and fun to make as sky's the limit on design/creativity! The cost of materials, including 'table, is roughly $200 (depending, more or less), and add to that a Rega tonearm. The results are astonishing. I'll even tell/show you how to make chipboard look like marble and fool and impress all your friends. If there's interest I'll get on with this project, if not, I'll just continue making them in my basement. The next one I make will have a Corian top and have a zebra stripe pattern! Fun! Any takers?”

The Lead in “Da Thread” as posted by Johnnantais - 2-01-04

Let the saga continue. Sail on, oh ships of Lenco!
mario_b
ronnie_ericsson
15 posts
 
I did a little research and am not so sure this guy made the mkIII version. Perhaps the mark I.
Anyway, if you'd like to ask him something about Audio Innovations you can try contacting member "Erik Andersson" on this forum: http://www.hififorum.nu/forum/default.asp

Don't know if I explained so well.. that screw (if your RS-A1 has one) is on the underside of the arm base, and is only an internal connection between arm "pillar" and base I think. Not for connecting an external ground wire to the phono stage.
johnnantais
621 posts
 
Hi Ronnie, no, there is no little screw interfering with the flush-mounting of my RS-A1, it is affixed flush using two-way tape with no problem on my arm-board. Perhaps they took care of that in their later models. Oh well on the AI 800 count, nevertheless, it is sounding glorious!! As it should, given it is being driven by idler-wheel drives :-). Now I'll play with the Lenco/Morch/Decca!!
mgreene
107 posts
 
Ol' Jean has moved uptown with his tonearms. I'm impressed - perhaps one day we will all have an address at the Tony Arms. Get it, huh, huh??? :0)

Well, I finally got my L59 set up in the new room and once again I am struck at how not-real cee dee counds in comparison - and Ray Price was sounding mighty fine on CD. Threw on the first record I laid eyes on, Miles / Nefertiti and was blown away with the natural timbres and timing.

In a related story, I am setting up my Garrard 401 and once again am confronted with the (slightly) bent eddy brake disk. It is enough to make the plinth vibrate so you can feel it through your finger tips. If anybody knows where to get a replacement or has other advise, please respond. At this point, I am going to dismantle and try to finesse it back into shape with my fine adjustment tool (hammer).

Mike
gp49
52 posts
 
On the 401 the eddy current disc should run true to avoid generating vibration, because the braking magnet is only on one side of the disc. The 301 magnetic brake is a horse-shoe shaped affair with the magnetic force transferred from the magnet itself via the two "legs" of the horseshoe, which "straddle" the eddy current disc so that if the disc wobbles a little, the effect is minimized: as the disc moves toward one "leg" it moves away from the other and vibration cancels out.

Good luck with straightening the disc on your 401. Very occasionally someone will "part-out" a 401 and sell the parts on E***.
leisual's avatar
leisual
5 posts
 
If I've got rust in the motor should I just bail out now? I started cleaning up an L75 I bought through an ebay auction and I wasn't too happy to see rust and corrosion spots underneath. When I opened the motor up there was rust inside and rust where the plug wires connect. It spins fine but I'd just like to know if this is a really bad sign.
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