How to Attach Spade 10 AWG Solid Copper

05-31-09: Reb1208
It never ceases to amaze me how much information you read on the internet that is outright wrong.

You got that right...... JMHO, the info you have given thus far is an example. Instead of just making a blanket statement saying solder first then crimp, why not back up your words with some credible data......

As for checking the Internet I can find crimp/solder connectors but not solder/crimp connectors. Though not audio grade here is just one example of crimp/solder connectors.

The free lesson is over. You (meaning those that need documentation) can experiment on your own. I know what works. I have built perhaps over 100 DIY audio cables of ALL types.

Have a nice day, anyway.

I've been soldering and crimping cables/connections for over forty years(30 yrs in business), and would REALLY like to know what could POSSIBLY be gained by crimping ANYTHING after soldering it. GEE- a hundred, really?

BTW, the link you provided is a valid approach. Notice that the solder is at the end of the wire, away from the crimp joint. You want to play semantics? I've done many a connection that way myself. Just don't solder where the crimp is, after the crimp is made.

Over and out..................

"and would REALLY like to know what could POSSIBLY be gained by crimping ANYTHING after soldering it"

1) Mechanical stability of the chemically bonded solder joint. Especially important in a speaker spade when you may torque down and remove an unknown amount of time over the life of the cable. Solder joints can and do fail under repeated load.

2) Metal to metal contact of the wire and connector, making for a direct contact connection. That is why I advocate to use a minimal amount of solder. You want to crimp onto metal, not solder.