Sony TTS 8000 w Sony PUA 1600L

Just found this thread. I have just paid for and am awwaiting a Sony TTS8000. I have to say that I absolutely love the styling. I remember reading a review in Hi-Fi World and the author thought it was great - likewise Hi-Fi News recently tested one and gave it a great review. In addition to this JCarr commented elsewhere that he preferred this and other slotless designs in the thread 'stand out phono stages'. I could not resist. The thing that I am really looking forward to is plinth(ing) it and having a bake of with my other decks (EMT 950 still needs to be sorted out). I am curious about a few things:
1. Which modern arm will best go with the tts 8000
2. Which carrtridge would you use with the TTS
3. Wood, slate, panzerholz??? what's the ultimate plinth material?
I am convinced that one will need an arm cartridge that is perhaps a bit on the warm side of neutral with great imaging properties - what say you

Lohanimal,
Here are my thoughts:
(1) Choose tonearm to match cartridge. Just about any tonearm will work on the TTS8000, except before purchasing a 12-incher you might check to be sure it fits the armboard.
(2) See my response to (1)
(3) Wood vs slate vs Panzerholz (which is a kind of wood, after all). These materials can all give excellent results if the plinth is otherwise properly designed and engineered. I personally have found that a combo of slate and a hardwood (cherry, not Panzerholz) is the most neutral I've ever heard, but in fairness, I have never "heard" a Panzerholz plinth.

Hi Lewm
The deck unfortunately is a motor unit, so I I have to build a plinth. That said it allows me to cook up a design of my own. I was going to design it to take two arms - one of which will accommodate a Townshend Rock Trough - I have at my disposal the following arms:
Moerch DP6
Jelco st 250/mission equivalent
EMT 929
I am just concerned that a p inch arm may not be long enough and I need to get a 10.5 or 12 inch arm - that's mean i can't use my trough - although I may get someone to make one for me.
Thanks for the plinth advice - my only concern with soli hardwood is sourcing planks that are sufficiently 'cured' and warp free - as you may know from the thread/storm I seemed to have created with the 'wooden arms warp' thread I have done cabinet making etc, and whilst I am very fond of wood I may be unable to get my hands on sufficiently aged and dried planks - but try I shall...

You're very courageous if you are going to make the plinth from raw wood planks. I created an engineering drawing of what I wanted and gave it to a "real" carpenter, who made the base for me out of solid cherry. (Sounds like you yourself have some real carpentry skills; I do not.)

I then mated that base to a slate plinth that I had previously commissioned. I bought the slate slab in PA, had it cut and honed by the company that sold the slate to me. They then shipped the slab to a water-jet company, also in PA, where the slate was cut to accept the chassis of my SP10 Mk3. The slate slab and the wood base are held together by 6 or 7 large bolts that engage threaded inserts I installed into the bottom side of the slate. Then the Mk3 chassis is bolted through both layers, top to bottom. The slate alone was "very good", but I think the slate + cherry is even more neutral. (What else would one say after so much time, effort, and aggravation?)

Now I am good at building things and thinking mechanically - but electrics - aaahhhh.
With wood it is a case of measure twice and cut once. Most wood can be sourced such that it is largely pre-mahined - therefore leaving one to do the final finishing.
Before I bore you... Back in the day my dad used to teach (I use the term loosely) me to use a router, wood turn, and use a bandsaw before I was 11/12 years old (Fortunately child protection issues weren't such a big topic in those days).
The thought of a plinth does not worry me, nor does the design. The only thing with wood is dust (I am allergic so have to use big masks when machining).
If the design goes to plan I will put images on my virtual system thread so everyone can see - there's not much/if any info on the web about the TTS 8000 or the plinths - SP10's have a wealth of info and plinths.
What I am curious about is what one should do about the TTS 8000 PCB. I understand that when refurbing a Japanese DD one normally:
1. replaces the capacitors - the people in the know Thalman, Krebs, Dave Cawley all seem to favour Panasonic - I wonder why - would Black Gates and Vishay's be any better?
2. replaces old transistors - if so which make or does it make a difference
3. resolders the PCB - What is interesting is that part of the potential advantage of modern day solder vis a vis 60's/70's solder that was lead based is that the new stuff does not corrode as much or as badly as lead solder. Lead solder is easy to work with though.
4. Gets the Krebs mod - I think I will do this post plinth and electrical refurb - let me enjoy it then move the deck forwards - I must say Richard Krebs is a really nice guy - a proper enthusiast
Maybe I should have started another thread, instead of hijacking this one - so sorry in advance - it's just that the TTS 8000 has not got another thread on Audiogon