Sweet Vinyl Sugarcube - I Want It!!!

I use declicker software in Wavelab and as a plug in with Cubase. I found they do work but can effect the music if applied universally and is best used only on the wav. segment where the click or pop happens.

I've also found there is never a free lunch but sometimes you have to do what is necessary. I doubt that anyone could tell where I declicker without listening really hard and thus, missing the music.

Thanks, raymonda.  So, if I understand it correctly, in order to declick a recording, you have to locate the click on a graphic visual representation of the audio file, and manually remove the click.  Is that correct?  If so, wouldn't the process be rather time-consuming, depending on how many clicks you want to remove?

Yes, you have to look at the file, listen and determine where the click or pop is, highlight the area and process it. A typical album, which has maybe 2-6 issues may take 2 minutes at best. Generally it can be done in under a minute.

If an album has many issues it is generally not worth, IME, to record it. I would wait until I was able to buy a cleaner copy. I can process the whole album at once but I would rather stay clear of having to process sections that don't require it. I have found that, regardless of claims, there is no free lunch. I also have a Denoiser plug in that I use and which can be fairly effective with tape hiss. But that too has to be lightly used. It will leave finger prints. As with all these things it just a matter of how many finger prints one can tolerate. 

I transfer my recordings via 24/96. It affords me great sound on the go plus it leaves me an accurate representation of cartridges and phono amps for future references.

I have to live with the ticks and pops

@bondmanp it might interest you to know that many ticks and pops heard on LPs are not the fault of the LP but instead the phono preamp!

If the preamp is unstable, it will make a tick or pop that is otherwise inaudible become quite audible. This is due to a ringing (damped oscillation) that can occur on the amplifying devices (usually transistors) at their inputs. The ringing extends the time of the tick or pop, making them audible.

I've seen this graphically demonstrated- where the same LP, played with the only difference being the phono preamp, made the difference between a perfectly quiet LP and one that you would consider trying to return to the store. That's pretty dramatic.

I don't employ any filtering or processing and am very used to listening to entire LP sides without any audible ticks or pops. This of course is not a cure for an LP that is damaged, but if you routinely experience a lot of ticks and pops as part of the surface noise of the LP you might want to consider what I've written here.