Vibration Theory - Isolate or Drain?

Don't mean to be a smart ass, but good luck with that.

To couple or decouple , I'm sure this will be settled quickly .

By the way, I am currenty using Herbie's Tenderfeet which isolate from the supporting surface (3" Maplewood shelves on a all Maplewood stand with sits on washing machine/ imdustrial isolation pads to minimize floor based vibration. I suppose if isolation is the technique used microscopes from vibration that is proabably worth noting given that vibration would be very obvious and is not based on theories used audio accessories vendors to convince audiophiles. I do realize though, how silly the search for consensus on this topic is - worse than asking SS or tubes.....

I was just checking this tonight, my CD player is on a Star Sound rack equipped with large cones for coupling to units to the rack and draining vibrations quickly. But I got a better result putting the CD player on a marble tile resting on 3 tungsten carbide ball bearing resting on 3 FIM saucers. I sell both so not partial. This result applies ONLY to my system at the present time.

For speakers, definitely the solid points seem best. So guess they are a 'drain' sort.
The reason for speakers seems to to stop the speaker cabinet from vibrating. and letting the floor vibrate? but it seems on points both vibrate less??
So anyway, from thier it would seem devices that do NOT have any internal vibration (electronics), I want to deaden any external vibration from entering. So if my rack is really solid I would use points, if my rack vibrates, I would use a softer foot, to keep the rack from buzzing up the electronics.
For CD, it would depend on the transport, if it is better to let the case vibrate soft feet, or try to stop the case.. points. With points, I would think they would work best with mass loading (Especially if the transport is lightweight!)
For my TTs, I use soft, with mass loading under the bases of the TTs. So the rack is as solid as I can make it. (though it is still a cheap rack)
So, finally: IMO f you have a cheap rack, use soft, if you have a structurally solid rack, use points.
This is my theory.. so far.
In practice, My Maggies are stock, everything else is on soft feet. If I ever do it, getting a solid frame to hold the Maggies would be a good idea. Not the reframing thing, just a brace and footers.
I would never spend a small fortune on high quality stands.. IMO not a great bang for the buck. The same money towards electronics would be a wiser move. (ditto cables) So a little better than average on racks and cables is fine by me. This is my opinion. and has no basis in reality,experiments, testing, theory.. other than it is what i do. (A really solid TT stand might be cool, If i could make, or buy one dirt cheap. Concrete sewer pipes spiked through the carpet 400+ lbs of concrete should do.... etc. (it would be GETTING them and moving them as the challenge!!!!)