VPI Classic 3 IDLE drive

This is what I did to lubricate the motor.

1.       Loosened all three allen screws on the 600 rpm pulley

2.       Loosened the one allen screw on the collar underneath the pulley

3.       Pulled the pulley off the shaft.

4.       Pulled the collar off the shaft.

5.       The collar has a smaller circumference at the bottom than at the top.  The bottom is supposed to be close to, but not touching the stationary part of the fixed motor assembly.  That space is what people refer to putting the syringe into for lubrication.  The 600 rpm pulley rests on top of the larger circumference of the collar.  There is an indentation on the bottom of the 600 rpm pulley that exactly fits the top of the collar

6.       So now you have everything off, clean it all, there was some dirt an grim in mine, clean the collar, around the fixed area of the motor assembly, clean the shaft.  I just wiped it off with a non-lint cloth.

7.       I used 0w 30 Castrol Synthetic motor oil, since I had it in the garage and a tooth pick.  Dipped the tooth pick in the motor oil and put several drops in the well area.  I also lubricate the stationary area close to where the collar fits into.

8.       Now for re-assembly.

9.       What is interesting is there is play in the shaft, you can move the shaft up and down.  If you pull the shaft up, it will stay there, however, as soon as you turn on the motor, the shaft immediately goes to the down position. 

10.   I tried a number of positions for the collar.  If the collar actually touches the stationary area, there are some issues.  First off, there is no way to get a syringe in there.  Second, if you put your ear up close, you will hear the collar rubbing against the stationary area.  When the collar is just barely not touching the stationary area, there is not sound, and also you can barely fit a syringe in there.  Therefore I concluded the correct position of the shaft at rest is the bottom, and the correct position of the collar is barely not touching the stationary portion of the motor assembly.

11.   So the motor shaft is at its resting point, you put the collar on, and position it so it is barely not touching the stationary area.  Turn the motor on and listen.  If you hear it hitting the stationary area, you have it too low.  Try again. Try and get it so it barely doesn’t touch.  Then tighten the allen screw.

12.   Then add the pulley, put a little oil on the shaft to make it easier to slide on the pulley.  Then tighten the three Allen screws evenly.

Correction, my post should have said the 300 rpm pulley. I have then larger pulley on my classic 3.

The small pully is for a 600 rpm motor. The larger pully is for a 300 rpm motor. It looks like the current model now has a 300 rpm motor.

You cannot use a belt and have the pully touch the platter. They travel is in different directions.

Thank you all for all your comments!

Is the lover RPM's motor better than the higher's?

I would be tempted to say that the lower the RPMs the less the vibration.
Could anybody here give me a hint if I should ask VPI to send me the lower RPM's or it's not a significant change?!?

I will read carefully through the comments for lubrication of the motor.
Just one comment: I don't see any Allen wrench under the collar I think it is press and fit, am I wrong?

I have read some info on the net and saw this review:

http://www.tonepublications.com/analogaholic/the-vpi-classic-1-turntable-originally-featured-in-issue-46/

As a matter of fact they are saying that plinth on Classic 3 is more massive and that motor is 300RPM.

When I bought this table I was upgrading from a Classic 1 and motor and plinth are or at least look exactly the same.

Now I am wondering, is it possible to get these parts replaced to match the latest stock table?
Does anybody have my same configuration?
My table has the silver top instead of the black mat finish.
I was so zealous that I was one of the first one to upgrade to the Classic 3.