Who needs a MM cartridge type when we have MC?


Dear friends: who really needs an MM type phono cartridge?, well I will try to share/explain with you what are my experiences about and I hope too that many of you could enrich the topic/subject with your own experiences.

For some years ( in this forum ) and time to time I posted that the MM type cartridge quality sound is better than we know or that we think and like four months ago I start a thread about: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1173550723&openusid&zzRauliruegas&4&5#Rauliruegas where we analyse some MM type cartridges.

Well, in the last 10-12 months I buy something like 30+ different MM type phono cartridges ( you can read in my virtual system which ones. ) and I’m still doing it. The purpose of this fact ( “ buy it “ ) is for one way to confirm or not if really those MM type cartridges are good for us ( music lovers ) and at the same time learn about MM vs MC cartridges, as a fact I learn many things other than MM/MC cartridge subject.

If we take a look to the Agon analog members at least 90% of them use ( only ) MC phono cartridges, if we take a look to the “ professional reviewers “ ( TAS, Stereophile, Positive Feedback, Enjoy the Music, etc, etc, ) 95% ( at least ) of them use only MC cartridges ( well I know that for example: REG and NG of TAS and RJR of Stereophile use only MM type cartridges!!!!!!!! ) , if we take a look to the phono cartridge manufacturers more than 90% of them build/design for MC cartridges and if you speak with audio dealers almost all will tell you that the MC cartridges is the way to go.

So, who are wrong/right, the few ( like me ) that speak that the MM type is a very good alternative or the “ whole “ cartridge industry that think and support the MC cartridge only valid alternative?

IMHO I think that both groups are not totally wrong/right and that the subject is not who is wrong/right but that the subject is : KNOW-HOW or NON KNOW-HOW about.

Many years ago when I was introduced to the “ high end “ the cartridges were almost MM type ones: Shure, Stanton, Pickering, Empire, etc, etc. In those time I remember that one dealer told me that if I really want to be nearest to the music I have to buy the Empire 4000 D ( they say for 4-channel reproduction as well. ) and this was truly my first encounter with a “ high end cartridge “, I buy the 4000D I for 70.00 dls ( I can’t pay 150.00 for the D III. ), btw the specs of these Empire cartridges were impressive even today, look: frequency response: 5-50,000Hz, channel separation: 35db, tracking force range: 0.25grs to 1.25grs!!!!!!!!, just impressive, but there are some cartridges which frequency response goes to 100,000Hz!!!!!!!!!!

I start to learn about and I follow to buying other MM type cartridges ( in those times I never imagine nothing about MC cartridges: I don’t imagine of its existence!!!. ) like AKG, Micro Acoustics, ADC, B&O, Audio Technica, Sonus, etc, etc.

Years latter the same dealer told me about the MC marvelous cartridges and he introduce me to the Denon-103 following with the 103-D and the Fulton High performance, so I start to buy and hear MC cartridges. I start to read audio magazines about either cartridge type: MM and Mc ones.

I have to make changes in my audio system ( because of the low output of the MC cartridges and because I was learning how to improve the performance of my audio system ) and I follow what the reviewers/audio dealers “ speak “ about, I was un-experienced !!!!!!!, I was learning ( well I’m yet. ).

I can tell you many good/bad histories about but I don’t want that the thread was/is boring for you, so please let me tell you what I learn and where I’m standing today about:

over the years I invested thousands of dollars on several top “ high end “ MC cartridges, from the Sumiko Celebration passing for Lyras, Koetsu, Van denHul, to Allaerts ones ( just name it and I can tell that I own or owned. ), what I already invest on MC cartridges represent almost 70-80% price of my audio system.

Suddenly I stop buying MC cartridges and decide to start again with some of the MM type cartridges that I already own and what I heard motivate me to start the search for more of those “ hidden jewels “ that are ( here and now ) the MM phono cartridges and learn why are so good and how to obtain its best quality sound reproduction ( as a fact I learn many things other than MM cartridge about. ).

I don’t start this “ finding “ like a contest between MC and MM type cartridges.
The MC cartridges are as good as we already know and this is not the subject here, the subject is about MM type quality performance and how achieve the best with those cartridges.

First than all I try to identify and understand the most important characteristics ( and what they “ means “. ) of the MM type cartridges ( something that in part I already have it because our phonolinepreamp design needs. ) and its differences with the MC ones.

Well, first than all is that are high output cartridges, very high compliance ones ( 50cu is not rare. ), low or very low tracking force ones, likes 47kOhms and up, susceptible to some capacitance changes, user stylus replacement, sometimes we can use a different replacement stylus making an improvement with out the necessity to buy the next top model in the cartridge line , low and very low weight cartridges, almost all of them are build of plastic material with aluminum cantilever and with eliptical or “ old “ line contact stylus ( shibata ) ( here we don’t find: Jade/Coral/Titanium/etc, bodies or sophisticated build material cantilevers and sophisticated stylus shape. ), very very… what I say? Extremely low prices from 40.00 to 300.00 dls!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, well one of my cartridges I buy it for 8.99 dls ( one month ago ): WOW!!!!!!, so any one of you can/could have/buy ten to twenty MM cartridges for the price of one of the MC cartridge you own today and the good notice is that is a chance that those 10-20 MM type cartridges even the quality performance of your MC cartridge or beat it.

Other characteristics is that the builders show how proud they were/are on its MM type cartridges design, almost all those cartridges comes with a first rate box, comes with charts/diagrams of its frequency response and cartridge channel separation ( where they tell us which test recording use it, with which VTF, at which temperature, etc, etc. ), comes with a very wide explanation of the why’s and how’s of its design and the usual explanation to mount the cartridge along with a very wide list of specifications ( that were the envy of any of today MC ones where sometimes we really don’t know nothing about. ), comes with a set of screws/nuts, comes with a stylus brush and even with stylus cleaning fluid!!!!!!!!!, my GOD. Well, there are cartridges like the Supex SM 100MK2 that comes with two different stylus!!!! One with spherical and one with elliptical/shibata shape and dear friends all those in the same low low price!!!!!!!!!!!

Almost all the cartridges I own you can find it through Ebay and Agon and through cartridge dealers and don’t worry if you loose/broke the stylus cartridge or you find the cartridge but with out stylus, you always can/could find the stylus replacement, no problem about there are some stylus and cartridge sources.

When I’m talking about MM type cartridges I’m refer to different types: moving magnet, moving iron, moving flux, electret, variable reluctance, induced magnet, etc, etc. ( here is not the place to explain the differences on all those MM type cartridges. Maybe on other future thread. ).

I made all my very long ( time consuming ) cartridge tests using four different TT’s: Acoustic Signature Analog One MK2, Micro Seiki RX-5000, Luxman PD 310 and Technics SP-10 MK2, I use only removable headshell S and J shape tonearms with 15mm on overhang, I use different material build/ shape design /weight headshells. I test each cartridge in at least three different tonearms and some times in 3-4 different headshells till I find the “ right “ match where the cartridge perform the best, no I’m not saying that I already finish or that I already find the “ perfect “ match: cartridge/headshell/tonearm but I think I’m near that ideal target.

Through my testing experience I learn/ confirm that trying to find the right tonearm/headshell for any cartridge is well worth the effort and more important that be changing the TT. When I switch from a TT to another different one the changes on the quality cartridge performance were/are minimal in comparison to a change in the tonearm/headshell, this fact was consistent with any of those cartridges including MC ones.

So after the Phonolinepreamplifier IMHO the tonearm/headshell match for any cartridge is the more important subject, it is so important and complex that in the same tonearm ( with the same headshell wires ) but with different headshell ( even when the headshell weight were the same ) shape or build material headshell the quality cartridge performance can/could be way different.

All those experiences told me that chances are that the cartridge that you own ( MC or MM ) is not performing at its best because chances are that the tonearm you own is not the best match for that cartridge!!!!!!, so imagine what do you can/could hear when your cartridge is or will be on the right tonearm???!!!!!!!!, IMHO there are ( till today ) no single ( any type at any price ) perfect universal tonearm. IMHO there is no “ the best tonearm “, what exist or could exist is a “ best tonearm match for “ that “ cartridge “, but that’s all. Of course that are “ lucky “ tonearms that are very good match for more than one cartridge but don’t for every single cartridge.

I posted several times that I’m not a tonearm collector, that I own all those tonearms to have alternatives for my cartridges and with removable headshells my 15 tonearms are really like 100+ tonearms : a very wide options/alternatives for almost any cartridge!!!!!!

You can find several of these MM type cartridges new brand or NOS like: Ortofon, Nagaoka, Audio Technica, Astatic, B&O, Rega, Empire, Sonus Reson,Goldring,Clearaudio, Grado, Shelter, Garrot, etc. and all of them second hand in very good operational condition. As a fact I buy two and even three cartridges of the same model in some of the cartridges ( so right now I have some samples that I think I don’t use any more. ) to prevent that one of them arrive in non operational condition but I’m glad to say that all them arrive in very fine conditions. I buy one or two of the cartridges with no stylus or with the stylus out of work but I don’t have any trouble because I could find the stylus replacement on different sources and in some case the original new replacement.

All these buy/find cartridges was very time consuming and we have to have a lot of patience and a little lucky to obtain what we are looking for but I can asure you that is worth of it.

Ok, I think it is time to share my performance cartridge findings:

first we have to have a Phonolinepreamplifier with a very good MM phono stage ( at least at the same level that the MC stage. ). I’m lucky because my Phonolinepreamplifier has two independent phono stages, one for the MM and one for MC: both were designed for the specifics needs of each cartridge type, MM or MC that have different needs.

we need a decent TT and decent tonearm.

we have to load the MM cartridges not at 47K but at 100K ( at least 75K not less. ).

I find that using 47K ( a standard manufacture recommendation ) prevent to obtain the best quality performance, 100K make the difference. I try this with all those MM type cartridges and in all of them I achieve the best performance with 100K load impedance.

I find too that using the manufacturer capacitance advise not always is for the better, till “ the end of the day “ I find that between 100-150pf ( total capacitance including cable capacitance. ) all the cartridges performs at its best.

I start to change the load impedance on MM cartridges like a synonymous that what many of us made with MC cartridges where we try with different load impedance values, latter I read on the Empire 4000 DIII that the precise load impedance must be 100kOhms and in a white paper of some Grace F9 tests the used impedance value was 100kOhms, the same that I read on other operational MM cartridge manual and my ears tell/told me that 100kOhms is “ the value “.

Before I go on I want to remember you that several of those MM type cartridges ( almost all ) were build more than 30+ years ago!!!!!!!! and today performs at the same top quality level than today MC/MM top quality cartridges!!!!!, any brand at any price and in some ways beat it.

I use 4-5 recordings that I know very well and that give me the right answers to know that any cartridge is performing at its best or near it. Many times what I heard through those recordings were fine: everything were on target however the music don’t come “ alive “ don’t “ tell me “ nothing, I was not feeling the emotion that the music can communicate. In those cartridge cases I have to try it in other tonearm and/or with a different headshell till the “ feelings comes “ and only when this was achieved I then was satisfied.

All the tests were made with a volume level ( SPL ) where the recording “ shines “ and comes alive like in a live event. Sometimes changing the volume level by 1-1.5 db fixed everything.

Of course that the people that in a regular manner attend to hear/heard live music it will be more easy to know when something is right or wrong.

Well, Raul go on!!: one characteristic on the MM cartridges set-up was that almost all them likes to ride with a positive ( little/small ) VTA only the Grace Ruby and F9E and Sonus Gold Blue likes a negative VTA , on the other hand with the Nagaoka MP 50 Super and the Ortofon’s I use a flat VTA.

Regarding the VTF I use the manufacturer advise and sometimes 0.1+grs.
Of course that I made fine tuning through moderate changes in the Azymuth and for anti-skate I use between half/third VTF value.

I use different material build headshells: aluminum, composite aluminum, magnesium, composite magnesium, ceramic, wood and non magnetic stainless steel, these cartridges comes from Audio Technica, Denon, SAEC, Technics, Fidelity Research, Belldream, Grace, Nagaoka, Koetsu, Dynavector and Audiocraft.
All of them but the wood made ( the wood does not likes to any cartridge. ) very good job . It is here where a cartridge could seems good or very good depending of the headshell where is mounted and the tonearm.
Example, I have hard time with some of those cartridge like the Audio Technica AT 20SS where its performance was on the bright sound that sometimes was harsh till I find that the ceramic headshell was/is the right match now this cartridge perform beautiful, something similar happen with the Nagaoka ( Jeweltone in Japan ), Shelter , Grace, Garrot , AKG and B&O but when were mounted in the right headshell/tonearm all them performs great.

Other things that you have to know: I use two different cooper headshell wires, both very neutral and with similar “ sound “ and I use three different phono cables, all three very neutral too with some differences on the sound performance but nothing that “ makes the difference “ on the quality sound of any of my cartridges, either MM or MC, btw I know extremely well those phono cables: Analysis Plus, Harmonic Technologies and Kimber Kable ( all three the silver models. ), finally and don’t less important is that those phono cables were wired in balanced way to take advantage of my Phonolinepreamp fully balanced design.

What do you note the first time you put your MM cartridge on the record?, well a total absence of noise/hum or the like that you have through your MC cartridges ( and that is not a cartridge problem but a Phonolinepreamp problem due to the low output of the MC cartridges. ), a dead silent black ( beautiful ) soundstage where appear the MUSIC performance, this experience alone is worth it.

The second and maybe the most important MM cartridge characteristic is that you hear/heard the MUSIC flow/run extremely “ easy “ with no distracting sound distortions/artifacts ( I can’t explain exactly this very important subject but it is wonderful ) even you can hear/heard “ sounds/notes “ that you never before heard it and you even don’t know exist on the recording: what a experience!!!!!!!!!!!

IMHO I think that the MUSIC run so easily through a MM cartridge due ( between other facts ) to its very high compliance characteristic on almost any MM cartridge.

This very high compliance permit ( between other things like be less sensitive to out-center hole records. ) to these cartridges stay always in contact with the groove and never loose that groove contact not even on the grooves that were recorded at very high velocity, something that a low/medium cartridge compliance can’t achieve, due to this low/medium compliance characteristic the MC cartridges loose ( time to time and depending of the recorded velocity ) groove contact ( minute extremely minute loose contact, but exist. ) and the quality sound performance suffer about and we can hear it, the same pass with the MC cartridges when are playing the inner grooves on a record instead the very high compliance MM cartridges because has better tracking drive perform better than the MC ones at inner record grooves and here too we can hear it.

Btw, some Agoners ask very worried ( on more than one Agon thread ) that its cartridge can’t track ( clean ) the cannons on the 1812 Telarc recording and usually the answers that different people posted were something like this: “””” don’t worry about other than that Telarc recording no other commercial recording comes recorded at that so high velocity, if you don’t have trouble with other of your LP’s then stay calm. “””””

Well, this standard answer have some “ sense “ but the people ( like me ) that already has/have the experience to hear/heard a MM or MC ( like the Ortofon MC 2000 or the Denon DS1, high compliance Mc cartridges. ) cartridge that pass easily the 1812 Telarc test can tell us that those cartridges make a huge difference in the quality sound reproduction of any “ normal “ recording, so it is more important that what we think to have a better cartridge tracking groove drive!!!!

There are many facts around the MM cartridge subject but till we try it in the right set-up it will be ( for some people ) difficult to understand “ those beauties “. Something that I admire on the MM cartridges is how ( almost all of them ) they handle the frequency extremes: the low bass with the right pitch/heft/tight/vivid with no colorations of the kind “ organic !!” that many non know-how people speak about, the highs neutral/open/transparent/airy believable like the live music, these frequency extremes handle make that the MUSIC flow in our minds to wake up our feelings/emotions that at “ the end of the day “ is all what a music lover is looking for.
These not means that these cartridges don’t shine on the midrange because they do too and they have very good soundstage but here is more system/room dependent.

Well we have a very good alternative on the ( very low price ) MM type cartridges to achieve that music target and I’m not saying that you change your MC cartridge for a MM one: NO, what I’m trying to tell you is that it is worth to have ( as many you can buy/find ) the MM type cartridges along your MC ones

I want to tell you that I can live happy with any of those MM cartridges and I’m not saying with this that all of them perform at the same quality level NO!! what I’m saying is that all of them are very good performers, all of them approach you nearest to the music.

If you ask me which one is the best I can tell you that this will be a very hard “ call “ an almost impossible to decide, I think that I can make a difference between the very good ones and the stellar ones where IMHO the next cartridges belongs to this group:

Audio Technica ATML 170 and 180 OCC, Grado The Amber Tribute, Grace Ruby, Garrot P77, Nagaoka MP-50 Super, B&O MMC2 and MMC20CL, AKG P8ES SuperNova, Reson Reca ,Astatic MF-100 and Stanton LZS 981.

There are other ones that are really near this group: ADC Astrion, Supex MF-100 MK2, Micro Acoustics MA630/830, Empire 750 LTD and 600LAC, Sonus Dimension 5, Astatic MF-200 and 300 and the Acutex 320III.

The other ones are very good too but less refined ones.
I try too ( owned or borrowed for a friend ) the Shure IV and VMR, Music maker 2-3 and Clearaudio Virtuoso/Maestro, from these I could recommended only the Clearaudios the Shure’s and Music Maker are almost mediocre ones performers.
I forgot I try to the B&O Soundsmith versions, well this cartridges are good but are different from the original B&O ( that I prefer. ) due that the Sounsmith ones use ruby cantilevers instead the original B&O sapphire ones that for what I tested sounds more natural and less hi-fi like the ruby ones.

What I learn other that the importance on the quality sound reproduction through MM type cartridges?, well that unfortunately the advance in the design looking for a better quality cartridge performers advance almost nothing either on MM and MC cartridges.

Yes, today we have different/advanced body cartridge materials, different cantilever build materials, different stylus shape/profile, different, different,,,,different, but the quality sound reproduction is almost the same with cartridges build 30+ years ago and this is a fact. The same occur with TT’s and tonearms. Is sad to speak in this way but it is what we have today. Please, I’m not saying that some cartridges designs don’t grow up because they did it, example: Koetsu they today Koetsu’s are better performers that the old ones but against other cartridges the Koetsu ones don’t advance and many old and today cartridges MM/MC beat them easily.

Where I think the audio industry grow-up for the better are in electronic audio items ( like the Phonolinepreamps ), speakers and room treatment, but this is only my HO.

I know that there are many things that I forgot and many other things that we have to think about but what you can read here is IMHO a good point to start.

Regards and enjoy the music.
Raul.
rauliruegas

Showing 50 responses by griffithds

Dentdog,

I run the BAT VK-10SE with 60+ different cartridges, including a Maestro and several M/C's. The table is the VPI Aries extended with a Graham 2.2 arm. I have had no compatibility problems with anything I've rotated in and out of my system, weather it be tubes or solid state. I run true balance throughout down to the BAT VK-70SE amp. Only problem ever encountered was when I tried to run balance from the cartridge to the phono stage. I couldn't get away from humm. I tried many different combinations and finally called Victor (BAT guru). His advice was run single ended from the cartridge to the Phono stage. It, to his ears, made no difference. I still wonder to this day, if you don't start out balance, how can it be balance at the end?
Regards,
Don
Lewm,

Victors remarks, in no way changed my opinion of him. He is a genius in circuit designs and product development. That discussion, that long discussion with him, had to have been 15 maybe more years ago and I have since gotten a better idea why he had made that statement. He was definitely not flippant and I am sorry if that is how my short reply might have sounded to you. You can not truly wire a phono cartridge to the phono stage in a truly balanced mode. It has been called Quasi-balanced (meaning sort of balanced?). The problem definitely was not the BAT phono stage, but was the silver unshielded phono cable from Bob Graham. Bob was kind enough to refund my purchase price and I then went with the XLO signature's. Because of Victors comments about not being able to hear/or measure any difference in either Balanced or Single Ended configuration coming from the cartridge and going to the phono stage, I went with the more common (and cheaper), single ended phono cable design.
It is this Quasi/sort of balanced that makes me a little confused, when discussing truly balanced circuitry. Can a circuit be "truly" balanced, if at its very beginning, is just Quasi/sort of balanced?
It was your earlier comments pertaining to being careful about products being truly balanced that sparked that memory .
Regards,
Don
Dave,

That would explain alot! My original VK10 arrived with the dealer display unit, in other words, one of the very 1st units in San Diego, very early production runs. It has been back 3 times for upgrades and is as current as it can be. Never had a failure of any kind. Bulletproof to say the least! Currently it is the SE model with the 6PACS (kindly referred to as depth charges), and Lundahl SU.
Thanks for the clarification,
Regards,
Don
Hello Lewm, and you to Tom,

No disrespect ever taken from either of you. My comments, the "Quasi-balanced" were from an article I read many years ago. I will try to locate, copy, and paste it here. My BAT phono input configuration has both single ended (RCA) plugs, and XLR's. Only XLR's for output. The article I am referring to was all about how to mount a modern phono cartridge to a modern tone arm in a balance configuration. The reason I even remembered it is because of how shocking it was to me to read such a thing! I readily admit that things electrical (circuity, etc.), will and does easily float over my head at times, but the reading of that article made since to me so it stuck. The article BTW, was not talking about the signal once it enters the phono stage, but was it a balance signal "when" it enter the phono stage.
Regards,
Don
Lewm,
I ran across this in my file from Victor. This is for our information purposes only. Interesting read.

"Posted by Victor Khomenko on January 4, 2001 at 12:36:22
In Reply to: Is phono cartridge a " balance " device ? If so, why is 99.999% phono preamplifer single ended ? posted by adnut on January 4, 2001 at 11:51:55:

***Some phono guru told me that phono cartridge is basically a " balance " device.
It is not. It is neither balanced nor single-ended. It is correctly called "floating" source that can be used either way. Much like a battery. The connection to the circuit defines wether it is now a balanced circuit or whatever.

But all this is really not important, or at least far less important than in the case of say, a preamp interfacing with a power amp. Why? Because the catridge has no ground reference, while the preamp and power amp do. Connecting two chassis always creates some issues that floating sources simply don't have.

The funny part is that floating sources can be connected to single-ended inputs and still behave like trully differential ones. I would much rather use the term differential, because it is better defined than the "balanced" - that has many definitions. We have built single-ended circuits with 140dB dynamic range that behaved completely as you would expect from differential circuits. The trick was - they were floating. Much like the input circuit in your DVM doesn't need to be trully "balanced" or "differential" (and they usually are not) in order to not have your typical single ended nastiness.

All this simply means that one should not get stuck in some terminology black hole, but rather do what is right. One particular case - tube inputs in phono stages. There, given the floating nature of the cartridge, it is more advisable to connect it to a single-ended input, gaining 6dB better noise performance (for the same resouces) that is extremely valuable in tube phono stages working with MC cartridges.

Again, each case is different and every designer sees it in a different light, and two products from the same designers might be different. All thank to the floating nature of this source."

I'll keep looking for the Quasi-balanced article.

Regards,
Don
Lewm,

Why must all the 99.99% of cartridges have to have an "outboard" grounding strap? Are there not also many cartridges with internal groundings, unseen by the naked eye? One more point that pertains to the VK10. If you do choose to use a single ended phono cable, you must use Victors supplied grounding plugs in the unused XLR inputs. I would assume that this is because his phono stage is a balanced input as well as balanced output and the grounding plugs allow for the use of single ended connections.
Regards,
Don
Halcro,

I only had LOMC,s at the time so I don't know what would have happened with any other types.

Regards,
Don
Raul,

Have you tried unshielded Balanced cables? That is what was giving me problems. The phono cartridged when connected in balance mode with unshielded cables create hum. I wasn't in the mood to buy and rotate various thousand $ balanced cables (unshielded), to see if I could discover a set that would work. I was told by both Victor (BAT), and Bob (Graham engr.), to go a different route (than unshielded),so I did. Based on Victors comment that he could not discern any difference between single ended or balanced connection from the cartridge to the phono stage, I repeat, FROM THE CARTRIDGE TO THE PHONO STAGE, I chose the cheaper method, single ended! I could have went with balanced(shielded), but if I was not going to hear any difference (from the cartridge to the phono preamp), Why waste the money!
Please reread all that was just stated above. It does not say that he could not hear any difference in the signal after it passes thru his balanced phono stage! The problem had nothing to do with what happens once the signal enter the phono stage. A signal being received by the phono stage that is carrying hum will pass that hum along into the phono stage, as part of the signal! That's not design flaw! If you have a phono stage that filters out part of the signal, then you have a flawed phono stage. My phono stage is not a filter! My comment (question), at the beginning of this thread, was whether a phono cartridge wired in balanced mode was truly a balance signal? Quasi-balance it what I have read it really is. Meaning sort of balanced. Can something sort of dry, really be called dry? Can something be sort of round? Can a signal be sort of balanced?
A point was made earlier about being careful about believing what a manufacture says when he calls his product balanced. I don't believe a signal that is "Quasi- sort of", can not be truly called balanced. If you wish to think of it as semantics, well that's your right. I'm an engineer, it either is, or it isn't!
Correction:

"can not be truly called balanced."

Should have read, can be truly called balanced.

Regards,
Don
Tubed1,

To answer your question, "Does titanium have memory", the answer is yes. The only way to change the shape (form) of titanium is with heat.
The outcome in trying to straighten a titanium cantilever without the use of heat(lots of heat), would not be what you would consider successful. The cantilever, if sent to a re tipper, would not be bent to correct, but reposition.

Regards,
Don
Flieb,

Quote:
"That should read, I think the 550ML was the only round plug beryllium/ML ever made."

I'm thinking a transplant might be in order here!

Regards,
Don

I have several beryllium cantilevers. Most are solid rod type.
I also have a couple (purported to be beryllium), that are tapered tube. Looking at the cantilever from the end, it appears to be a hollow square. Actually more rectangular than square, but you get the idea. Any confirmation of this design as to whether it would confirm a "beryllium" tube?
Flieb,

My comments doesn't have anything to do with AT in particular, just beryllium cantilevers in general. All my re tipper beryllium's are rod. I do know that there are tube beryllium cantilevers. I just want to know if there is a tell tale sign (No, not "here's your sign"!), but a way to tell at first glance, yep, that's beryllium!

Regards,
Don
Dear Comrade,

As always, your brilliance just baffles me. I'm speechless!

BTW: Sorry Flieb, my typing is not the greatest. I've even misspelled my own name once.

Regards,
Dno (grin)
Fleib,

You are a funny man! You must be related to my comrade, Nikola! (grin)

Regards,
Don
My dear comrades,

Sooooo, I'm not "totally wrong"! You and Flieb are related! (grin)
Lewm,

"Collecting tonearms in northern Europe"!

Is the world shrinking or what? My comrades lineage seems to have spread roots everywhere!
Never though tonearm collecting would be something that would run in the family! (grin)
Tubed1,

The 20SLa came out before the 20SS. As far as which one is a cut above the other, that is something only the owner of both could decide, and that persons opinion could be quite different than the next persons opinion. You could and would not go wrong in owning either one of them!

Regards,
Don
Harold-

It's not the material but the manufacturing methods used that makes it so highly toxic. Chrome bumpers on your car is a good example. Having chrome bumpers on your car will not make you ill. But working around a chrome plating facility will. It's the process, not the end results.
Regards,
Don
Harold---,

Yes, I felt you probably were but for the uninformed, I felt it best to make it clear.
I also have a love for the beryllium cantilever and I have several varieties as spares for future transplants. BTW,I found a online location for a AT150MLX stylus (gold plated boron), for $159. I bought a couple of them also for later transplants.
PM me for web location if anyone's looking for one!
Regards,
Don
J Carr,

I understand you are undoubtedly a very busy person, but I wish you could find the time to post more often. Your posts are like lighting bolts out of the sky!

Best regards,
Don
I have a Nagaoka MP50 Super that has the sapphire tube type cantilever with a nude square shank tip. You can actually look down the tube end and see the the stylus shank sitting in the center of the tube. It protrudes completely thru the cantilever. Quite impressive site to see.
I don't know why there are not more sapphire tube cantilevers on the market. I smile everytime I mount the MP50 Super. It's just so startlingly live sounding. One of my favorites!
Audpulse,

Got mine at StereoNeedles.com I perfer the removable stylus guard so I bought the 152LP. Exactly the same as the 155LC in every other aspect.

Regards,
Don
Isn't every cartridge that get sent to SS, Axel or to whomever, becomes a Frankencart as soon as it becomes something other than original? To put a beryllium, sapphire, or a boron cantilever where there use to be an aluminum would make it a Frankencart. If Raul thinks "and the frankeisteins only a joke", then he has several of them in his collection. The difference with ours is that they only cost pennies compared to what he is paying to a retipper.
Regards,
Don
Fellow Frankinsurgeon,

Some just use wire cutters, but I have found that the utility knife/Stanley knife works the best. Cuts through that stylus housing like butter if a new blade is being used. Prop the stylus housing up onto something that is square so the cantilever/stylus is floating out there in the air with the rest of the housing sitting flat. Go slow and think about what you are doing. You will be surprised at how easy it was and how good it sounds after it is installed.
BTW. Welcome to the club! (grin)

Best regards,
Hi Knut,

Yes, that A&R P77/SAS is an absolute winner. I have bought a couple of spare SAS styli for my use.
I was not aware that you also had joined the Frankenstein club! Welcome aboard. Your transplant was not only "easy to do with a knife", but think of how much money you saved. CA want 50% of new price for a stylus replacement, and I am sure your Jico is better than the AT replacement CA would have used. Congratulations on your successful surgery!
Regards,
Don


"cutting away the wings has also been referenced as "nuding" or "removing the wings", "de-winging" Not officially a Frankencartridge. But approaching it. Igor would approve!"

I would agree. Lets refer to this level as early stages of the transplanting transformation. The Frankencartridge has to begin somewhere and dewinging is as good a place to start as any!
Dear Acman3,

For those that do transplants, the ATS14 is still available for $88. This would not be a plug and play because the plug is not in the same position as the AT14S. Watch where the "S" is positioned when you buy these. I does make a difference!
I did a stylus transplant from a Akai RS 180 into the Signet TK 7SU housing. Yes, I know the Akai was a plug & play transfer but I wanted to keep the 7SU look to be original, so I did the transplant. This left me with an empty Akai RS 180 housing which is the AT14S housing. I then got the (questionable) brilliant idea that I could regain having a spare RS180/AT14S, if I just do a transplant from a ATS14 into this Akai RS180/AT14S housing. They are the same stylus/cantilever.
All transplants went well. So, if a cheap AT14S is what you want and have a suitable stylus housing, do the ATS14 transplant into it.
BTW: The ATS14 is the "nude" tip version, not the bonded. And don't be fooled by the statement "Genuine replacement for AT14S" on the listing. The stylus/cantilever are the same, but the location "plug" is in a different location.
Regards,
Don
Hi Stoner,

Yes, when something is capable and does produce greater dynamics, some (even though they say they have never heard one in their system), could call it louder. It's not perfect and careful attention must be paid to set-up and grounding methods, but man does it sing! It just grabs you by the ba*ls and makes you listen. I am not a believer that there is a "best" cartridge but Stoner, when I have this one mounted and dialed in, well, sometimes I question my own beliefs! This thing is absolutely stunning. For you to have gotten one of these jewels for the small sum of money that you paid, well, you are a very lucky man! Congratulations.
Regards,
Don
Lewm,

There has been only one cartridge company that has been allowed to use the paratrace stylus other than Expert. That company is the London Decca and it is used on the Reference. About $4400!
BTW: MR. Wright of London, and Mr. Hobson of Expert are friends.
Regards,
Don
Dover,

You bring up a very good point and is something we all need to think about. I must admit, I have sort of stopped thinking about compliance when I buy/mount a cartridge and I honestly do not know why other than perhaps being lazy!

Regards,
Don
Fleib,

I also have a couple of these MIT I cartridges. It is neither a re-badged Corral 81 nor is it a Corral 82. It is both! The body/generator of the 81 with the cantilever/stylus of the 82.
And my Comrade and brother Nikola was smart to have bought 3 of those. They are amazing to hear and worth far more that its purchase price.
Lewm,

Those flimsy plastic B&O ones are selling on fleabay for what you have stated SoundSmith is asking for their's. I would think that would make SoundSmith's a bargain!
Regards,
Don
Lew,

I am also surprised at your comment in regards to the Grace Ruby replacement by Sound Smith. Granted, there is quite a difference between the profiles of the two styli, and no doubt they are going to sound different. Maybe different, wasn't what you were looking for? As Fleib as stated, additional comments would be appreciated.
Regards,
Hi Fleib,

I have a ad page from JVC which describes the X-1 and the Z-1, both on the same ad page. Therefore they are quite similar. The Z-1 is the later model and has a slightly higher output. I hope this is due to the magnets, and not additional winding's on the coils. I have one of each. The SAS for the Z-1 is on order from Jico. The stylus holders are not the same but as you have stated, perhaps a bit of trimming will cure that. But we are assuming that the Z-1 is the lesser of the two and that has not been established. JICO only supplies the SAS for the Z-1. Now why is that? Perhaps because it is the better of the two? Perhaps because it was a much larger seller so their would be a larger market for replacements? Unanswered question as far as I know! But I am going to find out! The X-1 with the JICO DT-X1 MKII stylus or even the surprising Tonar's replacement for this X-1 makes this cartridge the best M/M I have ever heard. Better than the Grace Fe, better than the Technics 205C MK IV, better than the AT 150 Anv., and as good as my London Decca Jubilee. I own many of Raul's cartridge of the week. None, and I "mean" none of them can compare to this X-1. I'm hoping that the Z-1 is as good. I say this because there are many of them that pop up on the auction sites. As my comrade Nikola (Nandric), has stated, you can spend years looking for an X-1. I would have liked to have waited and found a backup for the one that I have before I alerted anyone but Nikola has 'spilled the beans' sort of to speak! I will keep all informed when the SAS from JICO arrives for the Z-1 as to how it will perform and if it will be a contender. I do have high hopes! If you run across a JVC X-1, buy it if it has exceptable coils. Either the Elliptical Tonar or the Shibata Jico are availabe for stylus's. Both are absolutely stunning performers.
Regards
Hi Fleib,

I remember that SAS MM1. It sold out rather quickly. I have that very same stylus mounted in a Garrott Bros. P77 cartridge. No, not a transplant but a perfect fit!
If what you speculate to as the JVC Z also being the SAS MM1 then I am going to be quite a happy camper. Perhaps I should try to fit the SAS stylus I have for that P77 into the JVC Z. Housings do look different though!
BTW: The JVC ad copy states the Z1 goes out to 50K. The X1 goes out to 60K. Compliance between the two is a little different. 12X** for the X1 and 10X** for the Z1. This might account for the slightly less extension with the Z1. Just my guess at this point.
Regards,
Fleib,

Forgot to mention. DC resistance: X1 470
Z1 510
And both Shibata's

Regards,
Hello Fleib.

One of the phono stages that I have in use is a heavily modded Jasmine. One of the mods converted it to 100K. I wondered if the reason it (the JVC X1) sounded so good was because of it being a 100K load! But Nandric was running his at 47K and feels the same about the JVC as I do so I do not feel the loading isn't an issue.
Now perhaps mine does sound 'better' loaded at 100K than my Comrades loaded at 47K. (grin) I've not heard it at 47K to say for sure! I have the amp in the other system (the 47K phono stage system), out for repair. When it returns, I will check the JVC in it to confirm.
Regards,
There are a few things I should add. 1) My previous post should have read 'loading is', not loading isn't. (a typo)
2) Nandric's cantilever is a Beryllium with a Shibata tip.
Mine also has the Shibata tip but it being a Jico provided item, I am not sure of the material used for the cantilever. But I am sure it is not the coveted Beryllium.
What convinced me to buy this Jico replacement was the fact that it has the 'tension wire' like the original stylus design. This lack of a 'tension wire' is the reason why there are no decent aftermarket stylus replacements for the Stantons and Pickerings. Morita-san, the designer of the SAS for Jico has developed the SAS stylus with this 'tension wire' design and must have decided to incorporate it into some of Jico's other stylus's.
The JVC that Nikolas (Nantric), has was found and purchased on the Japanese auction site. I had the pleasure of having it pass through my home while on its travels to his home in The Netherlands.
It is 100% NOS. In the short listen I had with his, I can honestly say that I could not tell any difference between his, and the JVC with the Jico MK II stylus. I state this only in praise of the Jico JVC X1 MKII stylus and I must clarify that there was no direct A/B testing done. But the amazing dynamics and clarity that I heard on the original (Nandric's), is also present on the Jico version.
J/Carr has commented earlier on this forum about the importance of this 'tension wire'. It is why Nikolas and I started our search for cartridges that incorporate this design concept. It appears the Morita-san of Jico, who also had a hand in the design of the highly sought after Sony XL line of cartridges (the XL 45, 55. and the 88's), also feels that this 'tension wire' design must have much merit. I know that David (Dialoum), has been looking for an original X1 stylus for a long time. If I were David, I would not waste another minute before I placed an order of this Jico replacement.
Its # is the DT-X1MK2
Regards,
Hello Tom,

Good to hear you are still around! (grin)
I am quite familiar with Mr. Prichard. I have owned and still have several of his cartridges. The Sonus Demension 5, The ADC ZLM and the Astrion among others.
It's all in the execution. Some of the finest cartridges ever made are with this 'tension wire'. Some of the finest cartridges ever made are 'without' this 'tension wire'. My favorite non M/C cartridge, the London Decca Jubilee doesn't even have a cantilever!
Like I said, it's all in the execution.
But what would be the point to go through the expense and design issues in regards to building a cartridge using this 'tension wire' concept if your end result was only going to be mediocre. I did a survey of cartridges. Those from our past that hold a position on the pedestal that we (hobbyist), have created and I was rather surprised at how many of those are with 'tension wire'. I'm not saying all cartridges with this 'tension wire' are good. Crap is quite easy to construct. But it is not easy to build contenders around this 'tension wire' concept cheaply so what would be the point?
In the Stanton and Pickering Handbook by Richard Steinfeld, there is a discussion in regards to the presents of this 'tension wire' in there designs that haven't been copied as of yet. To date, there has been no aftermarket stylus that will out perform an original.
This is not just my opinion, but the opinion of many followers of the Stanton/Pickering brand. The reason given it the lack of this 'tension wire' in the aftermarket design.
There is no 'one way' to make a contender. If there was, we would only have 'one' cartridge. And there is no perfect cartridge or design.
The opinions of others are just that. Their opinion. That includes Mr. Prichards. I know what sounds good to me. My ears are all the opinions I need.
If it's because I have learned to like certain 'distortions', (like Raul use to state), so be it.
Regards,
Hello Banquo363

If you still have your sample, look at the brass tube. If there is a tension wire, there will be a hole in approximately the center of its length that has been filled in as in the SAS or a tension adjustment screw as in the (or my) DT-X1MK2. I wish this site would allow pictures because I would like to post a picture of what I am talking about. Go to the Jico site and look at the Z1 and the Z1 SAS Page 2 of the JVC stylus listings. You will see this hole I am referring to. You can not see it on the picture of the X1 MK2 due to the angle the picture was taken, but mine has that hole. Now look at the Z1S picture on the same page 2. You will see no hole. The Z1S has no 'tension wire', but the Z1 and the Z1 SAS and the X1MK2 (that you can not see) has this hole therefore has the 'tension wire'.
In regards to you liking your original better than your replacement, well, we hear what we hear. I don't doubt you for one moment. I can only comment on the samples that I have heard.
Regards,
Fleib,

I have often wondered about the pricing at Jico. I did think the $144 price of the DT X1MK2 was rather high. That was until I heard it. It is because of this 'hearing it', that I decided to order the Z1 SAS. I have the Z1S body which is no different that the Z1E or the Z1. JVC just slapped different styli on the generators and gave them a different ID. I am hoping to also get stunning results from this marriage.
If David reads this or perhaps you can pass this on to him. I frequent the Japanese sites often and Nikolas frequents the European sites so between the 2 of us, I am sure we will find David a body.
There is a comment made by Banquo 363 stating the appearance of the diamond on his original. I don't think what he described is what I remember seeing on Nandric's NOS stylus. I need to contact him before I comment further.

Regards,
Fleib,

I have transplanted both the LP Gears (Jico) Shibata, and the LP Gears Vivid Line into either the Virtuoso or the Maestro. I prefer the Jico. Just my 2 cents!
Regards,
Banquo 363,

I have the X1 body. Nandric has the X1MKII body which I believe should be the same as your picture.
Do not worry about your statements . I have no problem with differing opinions as long as we remain civil.(grin) This cartridge has very little information available on the net so what we discuss here will be new knowledge to me. In this way, we all learn!
I have contacted Nikolas (Nandric).
He has been having trouble getting his posts posted in a timely manner. He has been on the moderators review list for much longer than necessary. If I say more, perhaps I might also get 'black balled' so I'll say no more. He has replied and his posts will be available tomorrow.
BTW: I will have to figure out this 'upload' method that you are using. Learn something everyday! Thanks
Regards,
Banquo 363,

I just removed my stylus from the JVC to again verify this screw. It is as I described. I do not think I will be removing this again. It does not come out as easy as I would like. I could also damage one the next time around. Thanks for your previous warning. I was extra careful!
Regards,
Hi David,

First I want to say your hopes of having the body for your X1 is more than just hope. You will have one coming to your door soon. But first I need to use it for some comparison tests. This will only take a few days. Last night, I received a gift from Nandric. It is a Z1-S cartridge. I have known it was on its way for a couple of weeks so I had ordered a JICO SAS stylus (Boron cantilever/ Super MicroRidge stylus), to be used with it. I also have the X1 with a MK 2 stylus. Coming from Japan, is a X1 MK2 cartridge with its original MK 2 stylus.
David, the JVC X1 elliptical stylus that Nandric had is now in my possession. It is not a beryllium but an alloy and does not have the tension wire. It also is better that expected in its musical presentation. Being a Tonar, I believe it to be made by Goldring.
I have 2 turntables in my systems. One of my phono stages is a heavily modified Jasmine MK 2 which allows the use or comparison of 2 turntables with the flick of a switch.
First I want to determine if I can tell any difference between the X1 and the X1 MK2. Then I want to compare the original JVC Beryllum/Shibata (nude square shank) cantilever/stylus to the Nivico (JVC), Alloy/Shibata (black industrial diamond) cantilever/stylus. It is best to not prejudge the 2 cantilever/stylus's that I just mentioned. I am rather shocked at how good this Nivico is as was Nadric when he bought the first one that got me interested in this model. Even this Tonar elliptical is better that it has a right to be. All this makes me think that perhaps it is actually the generators that are the main contributing factor in what we are hearing. Think about what I have just said. I have a alloy/elliptical, a alloy/Shibata (industrial Black diamond), and a Beryllium/Shibata (nude square shank diamond), and everyone of them sound far better than almost all of my other 50+ Moving Magnet cartridges. To say all this has caught me by surprise would be a major understatement.
I had thought we were at the end of discovering lost gems but this JVC has smacked me up side of my head!
More, much more to follow in a few days! The Z1 SAS is loosing up (breaking in) as I type this! The fun has begun! (grin)
Regards,
Don
To All,

I have spent the day with the Z1-S with the SAS stylus. The suspension definitely was alittle stiff! I had my doubts at first listen but after several hours, I am once again stunned!. The SAS is $133. The Z1-S can be found often for cheap. Hell of a combination.
Halcro, this combination gives the listener the same 'shock' we felt the first time we heard our beloved P77 with an SAS.
This is just a 'heads-up' recommendation. The Z1/SAS has that same 3D depth that I found so magical with the X1. The comparisons that I eluded to in an earlier post will follow soon.
David, take a breath. You will need all the air you can find because the X1 will spare very little due to its incredible presentation.
There is something special about this style generator system. To many different cantilever and stylus profile combinations are producing the same clarity and 3D effect that I am finding so enchanting.
How in the World did we miss these in our quest?