Wyred STP-SE : Break In Times

I have owned the STP-SE for almost 3 years now and there could be a few things going on.

The first question I have for you is what amp are you using. The STP-SE likes an amp with a high input impedance, 30K or more I'd say. The best experience I have had with it is using a amp with a 97K input impedance and my current amps, the first gen wyred sx-500s which have input impedance of 100k. I have tried to use two amps with low input impendances one was 10k and the other was 4k and the result was distorted highs and a uncontrolled bottom end. Treat the STP-SE like a tube preamp when looking for a amp to match. The higher the input impedance the better.

The second piece of advice I'd give you has to do with your power distribution. I have had wildly varying results with the STP-SE in different power configurations. A couple of things remain consistent though. Don't plug the STP into the same conditioner, surge protector etc with high current equipment like amps or flat screen tvs. I have done this before and it resulted in a similar sound to what you described. The best success I have had (and my current configuration) is that I have dedicated a PS audio Ultimate outlet to just the STP-SE. If you do have the STP plugged into the same conditioner as your other equipment I would unplug it and plug the STP directly into the wall and see if that makes a difference. If it does then you are having the same issues I just described and just need to separate the pre from the rest of your gear. It just doesn't seem like it wants to share. Just get it a separate conditioner and you should be good to go.

The STP-SE is a fantastic pre and I will never sell mine. To me it is worth selling equipment to get some that match well with it than vice versa.

Audiotweak,

What internal mods are you referring to?

Thanks

Rpw,

I replaced all the steel chassis fasteners with those of musical brass. Between the actual transformer and the chassis I placed 3 Audiopoint .2's on 3 Audiopoint APCD2's all of brass. This was all tensioned and secured with a brass rod and locking hardware. I took care to mark on the transformer and the chassis as to their orientation so as to maintain the measured factory noise level the same. I replaced the only 2 Dale fixed resistor values that are always in the signal path with Z foils from Vishay. All simple stuff I always do the steel for brass replacement for all my components and all my transformers are direct coupled as described with .2's Audiopoints or larger. Tom

Clearly you want to remove all the steel fasteners and replace with brass... Tom

Don't you sell the Audiopoint products audiotweak?

If so, wouldn't that disclosure be relevant?