What tweak, what to do?


Hi. First time on this forum. I need advice.

The very quick version of my question is: what makes a bigger difference to resolution, bass extention, etc., an decent equipment rack or isolation devices like the vibrapods or tenderfoot?

I have a limited number of $ -- around $200 tops -- to spend to improve my system. I have: Naim Nait 3, Naim Flat cap, Rega Planet, Rega Planar 2 w/super bias (that's got at least 1000 hrs on it), ProAc Sig Tablette 50's with custom stands, Sunfire True Sig Subwoofer Mk2. The flat cap has a crossover that diverts low hz signal to the sub. Odd set up, but, if well positioned, can be fantastic. But it's quite sensitive to set up. The gear is placed on a none to rigid coffee table, with the turntable on a separate side table. All are on carpeted cement floor in basement.

I love vinyl. One obvious thing to do is replace the cartridge with something much better (e.g., Exact, Dynavector 10x5). But I just don't have the $ to do that now.

Another is to get an equipment rack. I can maybe get a used one -- perhaps a Standesign design 4. That will give better isolation to the whole system. (By the way, is it ok to put the t-table on the top shelf with other electronic below? or is it imperative to have a separate support for the 'table?) On the other hand, that would eat up the whole budget, and i wonder if I cant get as much or more benefit from a couple of sets of cheap isolation devices for under the CD player and t-table, and have a few $ left over for other tweaks -- such as herbies t-table mat and grungbuster (comments on these?.

Too many options, not enough $ or information. A chronic problem with a million faces.

Thanks for the input.

Richard M
rnm4
SAve your money and buy a good rack. Do not waste your money on isolation devices until you get a good foundation. For your gear I would go light and rigid. Check out Sound Organization or Target. I would also recommend a wall shelf for the TT even if you do not have major footfall problems. Once you get the rack then maybe look to cones, bearings... to manage airborn or internally dources vibration.
The first thing I would try is Ceraball isolation devices. Buy at least 2 from music direct for $100 each with a 30 day return policy. These thins work under anything including speakers and subwoofers. If you have a PLC try them under that as well. Even if you thought your system sounded good before the first thing you will say is how did I listen to that before.
A dedicated line is a direct electrical line from your breaker box to the electrical outlets that feed your hi-fi rig. Your fridge, lighting, air conditioner, etc. will not be on the line, only your hi-fi. The improvements that you can expect are in just those areas that component upgrades do not generally address, a reduction in hash and texture and a blackening of backgrounds leading to enhanced dimensionality. The cost is generally around $100.00 to $150.00 to have an electrical contractor do this for you. It is the best money spent at this stage of the game.
Richard:

If the Ikea project is too taxing take a look @ Studio Tech's PS series rack (you have to assemble it). The 4 shelf version is usually available online for under $200 (shipped).

Run an online search of "Studio Tech" to find the lowest prices offered.

The Performance Series (PS) is the one to get as all 4 of the shelves are supported by adjustable upturned brass spikes (it also comes with floor spikes). ST's other rack series do not offer the spiked shelf(s) feature.

The adjustable spikes will allow you to level both your CD player and TT (many racks only offer a spiked top shelf, if that), plus such designs sound better.

I use an older version of the Studio Tech (same as the new version per online photos).

Installing a dedicated line is also a good suggestion, but as you use a TT I would start with a decent rack. If you do go with a dedicated line be certain to get a firm quote which includes materials/labor/permit-inspection expense. In my area this generally runs well over $200 as licensed electricians/contracters are not keen on doing small jobs (can't say that I blame them as they are not very profitable).