Modern Day Good Transport


I am in the process of going back to a DAC (Electrocompaniet ECD-1) and Transport setup. Any suggestions of some newer or few year old options for a good transport?

Suggestions would be much appreciated..

Chris
128x128the_kid
You do not really have to buy an aftermarket power cord for the Lans and a super-duper digital cable (from transport to lens; the other one - from lens to dac - is another story). IMO it is a GREAT buy at 400$ (used).
Guys
Where did you come up with the 400$ used lens.They go for 450$ bottom price and up.In a 9/10 with the metal remote/manual e.t.c you looking at 550$-580$.At least that's what I paid for mines,(I got two lenses going)
Agree about the sonics with the lens in.
George
what about the GW Labs ? it would be cool to do a comparison to the lens...

btw, i was being a little conserative on the pricing of the lens....not to mention there are different verions and remotes.
Sogood: Yes, selling the DA10 was one of the two regrets I have made over the last few years....the other being the ARC VT130 which smoked the VT100 and sells for far less here on Audiogon. Both the DA10 and VT130 are absolute runaway steals in performance and price.

Elberoth: The Lens benefits highly from aftermarket power cords. Both the Purist Dominus and Kubala-Sosna take the unit as far as the unit itself does in the chain. Other PCs that I tried, NBS Statement and PS Audio Statement made very little difference. It is quite incredible what some PCs do to digital gear. Makes no sense, but a return to the stock PC and the ambience and life in the music is significantly reduced.

And yes, a super duper digital cable is the same improvement as the PC. I went from a cheapo cable to the MIT AES/EBU and this was quite a nice gain in clarity. I then changed to the Marigo 5.7 and wow, even bigger. So maybe it is not so much what these more expensive cables are doing but rather all the damage that the cheapo cabls are doing.

Yioros: I got my Lens for $450 a couple years ago. It has the plastic remote but who cares as the remote is used only to power the unit up when power goes down. It is too bad the unit does not have a power-on switch as I would never need to use the silly remote at all. And yes there are different versions but I understand this to be only the firmware.

John
Jafox,

I agree that the 2-nd digital IC has to be of high quality. I was talking about the first one (form transport to lens). It does make SOME difference, but it is nowhere near as great as the second one, and if you are on the budget, that is the place to save some $$$ IMO.

The best way to save money using GDL is going with ST cables - they are superior to electrical connections and are dirt cheap (you can get one for 30$). Talk about "value-for-money" here. The problem is, not many components sport ST ins/outs. But if they do - use them by all means.

As for power cords - I have tried Shunyata Diamondback and could not tell the difference. Maybe some more expensive cords would, but I was not encouraged to try.

BTW - get the GDL with plastic remote - it doesn't look as good as metal one, but it is easier to use (and it is cheaper). I had both.