Seeking advice re: complex power conditioning


I have a rather high-end system (Accuphase, Krell, Proceed and Wadia electronics with Revel Ultima 5.1 speaker system and mainly Transparent Audio cabling). I am now trying to “complete” my system by incorporating power conditioning. What I am thinking of doing is introducing balanced power, noise reduction, power supplementation, surge protection and voltage regulation. The specific components I am most seriously thinking about using are the SMART Home Theater GC-120 for balanced power and voltage regulation, the Shunyata Hydra for noise reduction, and the Richard Gray Power Company for power supplementation and surge protection.

I am intending to connect them in a daisy-chain fashion: GC-120 into the wall plug, with the Hydra plugged into the GC-120 and the Richard Grays into the adjacent wall plugs and/or the Hydra, depending on the application (my Krell FBP-200c is plugged into its own circuit via a PS Audio Ultimate Outlet and PS Audio Mini-lab power cord).

What I am seeking is the opinions of others regarding this proposal. Will it work? Am I chosing compatible products, etc?

Thank you.

Jonathan
jmeyersca@aol.com
128x128jmeyers
Re; PCTower's comments, I was considering the PS Audio P300 then decided to get the Virtual Dynamics power cords instead. Enough said.
Karls, maybe I am stupid, but why do you need a motor- generator and a electric-generator. Wouldn't be a motor- generator, say 5KW, be enough?I probably do not get it, and since I played with this generator idea myself, would you mind explaining the set-up in detail?
I've had a fair amount of experience with motor generators in research science and computers. As Karls states they can't be beat for high demand current at the top of the ac wave form (especially if the setup has a fly wheel). The practical efficiency will be below 90% because the demand will not be constant unless you run monster class A amps, however 75% plus sounds about right. But there are a few caveats.

Most are VERY noisy and will need special sound muffling installation. Outside, I have a 5 KW motor driving a hydraulic motor for a counter current exercise pool. It’s designed to be quiet, on a separate concrete foundation and it is in a noise reducing enclosure. It is still pretty noisy in operation. It is much noisier than the 1 HP pool filter motor. There is no way you would be able to eliminate the vibrations if the motor generator was installed on the same concrete foundation as your house, so that eliminates the basement and the garage for installation locations.

I would also look at the spec's to make sure that the combo is designed to run electronic/hospital instruments. The industrial phase converters aren't elegant when it comes to not generating some hash (noise). My 5KW motor does.

Since the motor generator will be fairly far away from the listening room you will need to be careful with your cable run so that you don’t pick up noise or cause a current drop.

Then there is that great question of for safety against lightning since the motor generator ground will be some distance from the service ground. If the city requires that the motor generator’s output be tied to ground at the service entrance you are connected back to a noise source.

If you are in a city, the city will probably require a licensed engineer to do the design including redoing the ground for your AC service. If you have a contractor do all this expect around $ 8 - $15 K based on my hydraulic motor experience.

However, done right, nothing can beat a motor generator for clean, efficient, high current power delivery.
Thanks Pls1, good post.

Re your hydraulic pump, the vast majority of the noise/vibration is coming from the pump side, not the motor (my guess would be on the order of 99%). Like I said, you definitely have to mount this system with isolation mounts, or put it in its own shed, but most are not that noisy since they are no noisier than two AC electric motors.

Re efficiency, I was just assuming 95% efficiency for the motor and the generator, which may be a little high, since the smaller ones probably aren't that good. So you may be right, 75-80% may be more accurate. Still way better than the 25% of a class-AB amp like the PS Audio unit.

For Tekunda, sorry if the above wasn't adequate explanation. A motor-generator is two separate pieces, (1) an electric motor, and (2) a generator. They are mounted facing each other on a single platform and hooked together by a straight coupling to transmit the rotation of the motor into the generator, which then creates the new AC waveform from scratch, just like a miniature power plant. They are completely electrically isolated from one another, which is why they give such good performance-- the power company's AC signal ends at the motor, and the generator creates a brand new one. I didn't point this out before, but they are immune to short-term power interruptions as well (up to a few seconds), since they carry a lot of inertial energy in their rotation.