FIM vs. PSA powerport vs. Anything else?

Thanks to all who responded. I will be using the JPS In-Wall from the box and connect to the FIM 880's. Fortunately, I have a short run! A fellow A'gon member had 2 FIM's that didn't suit him. I figure they will be the right choice because of the higher copper content proposed to smooth out the sound somewhat. $125.00 is best price I can find for the Wattagate 381 and that's beyond my sanity level. Further conditioning is yet to be determined? I'd like to praise Joe of JPS for being very helpful and informative! A great guy in the audio world.

Hey Gray, Being a fellow sawbones and an audio-something I will help. Just finished the same project. I used 3 runs of silver plated, 10 gage, stranded, heavy shielded copper wire and made 2 lines {The wire only had 2 conductors}. I used 30 amp fuses in the box and a line for digital and analog. Used FIM 880 outlet and short runs of JPS IN WALL stuff just for short runs in the wall and more FIM outlets daisy chained together. I use no line conditioners but decent power cords. It has no surge protection and I do still hear a Pop when the dishwasher of heater kicks in. As far as I can tell the first 2 months were breakin time but the improvement was quite dramatic. My OTL amps had the most to gain but even my home theater setup and TV improved but not as dramaticly as the tube amps and 2 channel music system. The cost of doing it yourself is less than a couple of good power cords. If you need the web site for the wire let me know but by all means this tweak is "slicker that shit". I hope your not a Proctologist. Happy Trails

if you're using stranded copper wire for mains make sure it is the high purity type.
i have some monster installed in the walls for speaker cable and it is turning green, which cannot be good for the signal. less important perhaps for power signal, but still a consideration.

Hi Gray; I'm really a sucker for these AC power supply threads! I had a dedicated system put in a couple of years ago and now consider it the foundation of high quality music. I didn't use audio-grade wire, rather I had 60 ft. of 6 ga. copper stranded wire already basically in place so I just used it from the main to a dedicated sub-main with four 20 amp breakers. I also had the electricians ground the sub-main box with 3 six ft. copper rods driven into the ground near my system.

For outlets I've used mostly audio grade Hubbells-- and they are fine, but lately have become totally taken by the high purity copper FIM 880. I now have 4 more FIMs on order-- hope it's not to much of a good thing. In MY SYSTEM, I much prefer the warmth and richness of the FIM outlet to a silver plated Acme.

As to compatibility of different parts of the dedicated system, I think you just have to make the best decisions you can, see how it sounds and go from there, eg what has worked well in my system may not do it for you. You may really like the fast, smooth, detailed Acme outlets for instance. After getting the system installed, it was so bright it just about took my head off, and Redkiwi suggested that I was hearing the cheap stock power cords. So, I auditioned 7 power cords and chose the Syn. Res. Master Couplers-- that completely took care of the brightness.

It occured to me later that just letting the system "burn in" for awhile may also have mellowed it out. I could test this by going back to stock cords, but have felt no need to as I've also become a big believer in good power cords. BTW, regular stranded electrical wire is directional, ie it sounds different when run one direction than the other. Redkiwi suggested this, and I tested it with the big 6 ga. wire, and it's really true-- one direction was soft, dull, and boring, and the other was much more dynamic, live, and musical. I have no idea why this is true.

You're taking the right approach in considering ALL variables that you can, and I wish you luck. Cheers. Craig