Kinki Studio EX-M1


I’ve always wanted something simple and not a jack-of-all-trades when it comes to my stereo. KISS (keep it simple, stupid) is something I use in my approach to most things in life. Why overcomplicate? The Kinki EX-M1 is just an integrated, and that’s not meant as a pejorative. There’s no DAC or streaming capabilities, or room correction algorithms built in, and it won’t fold you laundry. There are 4 inputs out back, three unbalanced (RCA) and one balanced (XLR) which I’ve read is a simple and not a true balanced. Either way, it adds another type of input which can come in handy. The binding post are copies of WBT versions and are a joy to work with.

It has a frequency response of 10-150kHz (+/- 3db) and outputs 215W into 8ohms. It retails for approx. $2,200. Here is a link to more specs:
https://www.vinshineaudio.com/product-page/kinki-studio-ex-m1

Because of it’s silvery finish it has an imposing appearance but compared to my black Marantz PM-15S2b, it’s about the same size. Personally, I love the look. When they say it’s built like a vault, this is the vault they refer to. The weight is imposing as well (55.12 lbs.) so take care when maneuvering it. You can turn it on with the remote or by pressing in the selector knob on the left. Turning it off is done by pressing and holding the same knob for 5 seconds, or by remote. The default volume setting when turned on is set at 10 so make sure to turn it down to 0 before playing anything unless your speakers are of low sensitivity. A well made manual is supplied but alas, it’s only in Chinese, but Alvin told me they’re making one in English.

Having 255 steps of attenuation gives one extraordinary range to get to exactly where you like to listen. You can go up 10 to 15 steps and not notice much of a change, at first, until something dynamic asserts itself or when you realize that in general, it’s now more impactful. Using the remote allows you to quickly go through the steps and adjust on the fly. I find this most handy and now use it to tailor the song or piece of music to my tastes.

As an integrated, it simply excels in it’s purpose. As verbose as I can tend to be, it leaves me speechless in describing it. It does nothing to detract. It does everything to commend. It’s incredibly fast and yet so utterly smooth. Musical presence is immediate but not etched, hyped or shrill. It’s light on it’s feet but can pounce and stomp when called for.

Liu, the amp’s designer, does not believe in exaggerated base and yet this amp goes lower, tighter and simply growls tone, details and ambience that I haven’t heard before. Lower registers of the piano left me slack jawed as I basked in the reverberations of the soundboard. The same goes for cello, guitar, percussion and massed strings. Imaging is the best I’ve heard in my system. Nothing wavers (unless done in post production) and separation is tops. With The Milk Carton Kids, the two of them finally are completely separated and at a greater distance apart than what I’ve been used to or thought they’d be. Small chamber music pieces have me scanning the soundstage as different pieces play distinctly in their own space. Back up vocals are distinct as well with no smearing. They may harmonize but they are clearly different.

Highs are fully extended, again, beyond what I’m accustomed to hearing. They can go on well into a piece and you can hear the decay even when some bigger play takes center stage. Bells and chimes can tickle like the real thing. And speaking of stage, it’s of one piece, the same no matter where you care to go. All the way left, right, up or down, even as far back as you care to look. The strength of the music lies everywhere you care to listen. The only limits are what was done in the recording.

It has no noise floor that I can detect. On Abdullah Ibrahim’s The Song Is My Story, he’s not up on stage, as usual, but I’m sitting next to him while he plays (I listen in the near field so that helps). The piano is the full width of the soundstage, steady as a rock, and the notes flow out around, up, and beneath me (great mike placement). Notes can and do come out of a completely black background unless the recording is done with less tricks and then you easily hear the venue, the room, the stage, the setting. And, I never thought I’d say this but FM now sounds pretty fantastic, considering it’s limits.

The sound is so pure that it’s reoriented the way I listen to music. I no longer listen analytically but for the sheer pleasure. It’s so rewarding and relaxing. Listening to favorites, I’ve noticed that some sound different enough for me to notice that there was some exaggeration or emphasis of certain parts of the frequency with my older set up. Whether it was the house sound that some say certain brands have or just the limits of the design I can’t rightly say. Maybe it’s all the extra circuitry added to accommodate all the extra features I have no use for. No matter. I’m content. Happy as a puppy with two pee pees.

Also, I have to give thanks to Alvin for his great customer service. He’s the most attentive distributor I’ve dealt with. His response to any question I had were immediate and thorough, as long as one is mindful of the time differences (just check your clock on your smartphone to coordinate appropriate time zones). 👍 He even followed up with shipping notices, delivery times, and any question I had with the unit’s operation or features, which reminds me, since it draws about 30-40 watts when on, make sure to leave it in standby when not is use. It can get very warm to kind of hot, but not hot enough for me to lay my hand on it for any length of time. If I had more space it wouldn’t be a concern (it cools off quickly). That leads me to believe that maybe since my JBL 4319 monitors are 92db, and that it doesn’t take much to make them sing, that the EX-M1, which is a Class A/B design, operates in Class A for the first several watts, which could account for the warmth of the unit along with the wonderful tonal density and texture. Someone with more know how can look into that.

All in all, it’s the best money I’ve spent and now I have no desire to upgrade to some PC based system. My CDs and SACDs sound fantastic, even the old ones along with the reissues. To think you’re getting a real taste of what the well heeled have been enjoying for a fraction of the price makes this a true bargain if there ever was one. Let me also add that I received no consideration from the manufacturer or distributor and these are my views and opinions.

All the best,
Nonoise






128x128nonoise

Showing 10 responses by almarg

Wonderful review, Nonoise. Thanks!


@jayctoy
Nonoise iam like you , SIMPLE, I bet you can use it as preamp, I have Viva integrated, I use it as preamp at times, very good review.,,

The problem with using a tube-based integrated amplifier having output transformers (such as your Viva) as a preamp is that running it without speakers or suitable load resistors connected can eventually result in damage to its output transformers and/or its output tubes, due to a phenomenon known as "inductive kick" or "inductive kickback." You can Google those terms for additional info.

I would not recommend operating a tube-based integrated amplifier with its power amp section unloaded without either obtaining an explicit ok from the manufacturer, or if the design provides some means of disabling its power amp section. Or, at the very least, if it provides a means of disconnecting the signal from the input of the power amp section.

That concern is not applicable to the solid state Kinki Studio integrated, of course. However it appears that it does not provide output jacks for its preamplifier section.

Best regards,
-- Al

It states in the manual that it's optimum operating temperature is 40º C or about 104º F. Would that indicate a sizable bias into Class A?

Hi Nonoise,

I can't provide much insight into your question. But FWIW an operating temperature of 40 degrees C does not seem to me to be particularly high. Although of course the reading will vary considerably depending on exactly where on or within the amplifier the measurement is taken, and it may very well be hotter than 40 degrees at some internal locations.

Also FWIW, most Pass Labs power amps and integrated amps that are described as operating in class AB, even the low powered ones, seem to specify an operating temperature of 53 degrees C, while weighing significantly more than the Kinki (which I suspect signifies greater ability to radiate and dissipate heat). With the 250 watt (into 8 ohms) INT-250 integrated amplifier described as leaving class A at 15 watts peak.

Finally, while it probably doesn't have any relevance I'll mention that the motherboard in the physically large and well-cooled desktop computer I'm using to compose this response is reporting a temperature of 46 degrees C, with the cores in the CPU chip running at 55 degrees C while idling :-)

Best regards,
-- Al 
can this integrated be used only as a preamp or a power amp separately ?

As I mentioned in my post just a little while ago the amp does not provide pre-out jacks.

Also, it could be used as a power amp, but only with its preamp section in the signal path. And if that is done, as was mentioned in posts dated 7-13-2018 in this thread it may be desirable to ask the manufacturer to reduce the gain that is normally provided by the design.

Regards,
-- Al


Coldears 9-2-2018

My understanding is the amp is class AB but runs in Class A for the first few watts. It is my understanding there is more heat running class A. My speakers being 100 dB the amp will only need a few watts to operate thus it should be running class A and giving off quite a bit of heat. Others have noticed it runs hot which I haven’t noticed.
An amp operating in class A will usually generate considerably more heat than an amp operating in some other class **if the two amps have comparable maximum power capability.** And everything else being equal (including class of operation), more maximum power capability means more AC power consumption and hence more heat being generated.

So an amp that runs class A for the first few watts, and is only asked to operate within those first few watts, will not necessarily generate a lot of heat.

Regards,
-- Al
When the amp is either idling or not putting out much power and its temperature has warmed up to a stable state its temperature will be a certain number of degrees above the ambient (surrounding) temperature, whatever that ambient temperature may be. The amp's temperature will increase further, of course, if it is putting out a lot of power for a significant amount of time (unless the amp is operating in class A at high power levels, which it is safe to assume is not the case here).

The photo Uncola provided on 9-9-2018 shows the top cover of his amp being at 48.4 degC (119 degF) in a room that is not air-conditioned, at a time when the outdoor temperature was about 83 degF. Although whether the amp had been idling or putting out a lot of power when that measurement was taken wasn’t indicated, that seems reasonably consistent with the mention of 40 degC (104 degF) in the manual, which is presumably based on the amp idling and in a room that is in the vicinity of 70 degF.

Given Benlzy’s statement that his amp "gets freaking hot after extended play time, if I don’t turn on the air-conditioning! But then again, Singapore is pretty hot all year round so probably that’s why," my guess is that his amp is operating normally.

Regards,
-- Al
@benlzy, it appears that the AC in Singapore is nominally 230 volts and 50 Hz. If you have or can obtain a multimeter it would be good to know what the actual AC voltage is, because if it is significantly higher than 230 that could contribute to the amp running hot. Also, I wouldn’t be surprised if the amp runs somewhat hotter at 50 Hz than at the 60 Hz frequency most of the rest of us have, everything else being equal.

Also, if my suspicion is correct that the 104 degF referred to in the manual is based on an ambient temperature of around 70 degF, at 77 degF the amp (or at least certain points on it) would be around 111 degF. That seems to me to be consistent with your description of "warm."

And if the room is at say 90 degF without air conditioning that would imply a temperature of around 124 degF, and higher than that if music is being played and possibly also as a result of the AC voltage and frequency.

Regards,
-- Al
@Benlzy, after looking at interior photos of the amp, and specifically at the vertically oriented printed circuit board that is adjacent to the input connectors at the rear, I’m guessing that the XLR input is received single-ended. Meaning that one of the two signals in the balanced pair of input signals is ignored.

If so, the presence or absence and the degree of hiss that might result would depend to a large extent on the happenstance of the design of the component providing the signals.

Do you notice a significant volume increase when using the XLR input compared to the RCA inputs, for a given setting of the volume control? If not, it would add credence to my hypothesis.

Regards,
-- Al
I’ve also noticed that when I’m increasing or decreasing volume by holding down the volume button, I’m getting pops from the speakers, usually after increments of 4-5 (apart from the resistor clicks). Should I be worried

@benlzy, the only suggestion I have at this point is that if you are running the display in bright mode, try dimming it and seeing if that helps.

It sounds like when you hold down the volume buttons on the remote either the relays which select the positions on the resistor ladder that determine volume, or the microprocessor circuitry which controls the relays, or the volume display circuitry on the front panel, are injecting noise into other circuitry (apparently in the DAC, based on your latest post) which is then amplified and producing the pops.

I have no way of knowing if that is inherent in the design or represents a defect.

Also, as a point of information, the "resistor clicks" are produced by the relays, which are electro-mechanical devices.

Regards,
-- Al
@boschpants, you can do what Imhififan suggested even though the Kinki is an integrated amp.  You just have to determine a setting of the Kinki's volume control which allows you to use the volume control of the AVR or pre-pro in a reasonable part of its range, and return to that setting of the Kinki's volume control whenever you are using the system for HT purposes.  And of course the signal levels provided to whatever speakers are not being powered by the Kinki would have to be set up appropriately, as they would have to be even if the Kinki provided HT bypass.

And, no, like Imhififan I don't own a Kinki either.

Regards,
-- Al 
Unity gain means that output voltage equals input voltage, which corresponds to a gain of 1 when expressed as a ratio, or to zero when expressed in db. Mike must have been referring to the gain of some stage within the amp, rather than to the gain of the amp’s entire signal path. Also, btw, the gain of an integrated amplifier (or preamp) is usually specified based on the volume control being set at max.

The Six Moons review of the amp stated that it provides "26dB of voltage gain in just the line stage followed by another x 20 amplification factor in the power stage." "x20" is also a gain of 26 db, so the overall gain is indicated to be 52 db, which is very high. (26 db of power amp gain is fairly typical, but 26 db of line stage gain is very high although not unheard of). I suspect, btw, that the model they reviewed was an early version which (like the one Nonoise has) did not have a gain switch, and the 52 db overall gain corresponds to what is provided by recent models when the gain switch is set to its high sensitivity position.

Also, those numbers seem consistent with reports from several users of having to set the volume control at very low settings.

The sensitivity specs for the amp are not consistent with such high gain, though. It can be calculated from the specified 215 watt/8 ohm power capability of the amp and the specified high and low sensitivities of 2.25 and 3.6 volts (which differ by 4 db, btw, not by 6 db) that those numbers correspond to gains of only 25 db and 21 db, respectively, which would be **very** low for the overall gain of an integrated amp. Given the Six Moons review and the several user reports I referred to, it seems clear that either those numbers are very inaccurate or else they are defined very differently than how sensitivity specs are usually defined, which in turn is the input voltage required to drive an amp to full power when the volume control (if present) is set at max.

Personally, if I were to consider pairing that amp with 101 db speakers I would count on having to put a Rothwell attenuator between my source components and the amp, especially if any of the sources are digitally-based (as opposed to vinyl). And I would also have some concern that hiss or other noise generated either within the amp or as a result of ground loop issues between the amp and the source components might be boosted by the high gain to the point that it becomes excessive.

Regards,
-- Al