LINN SONDEK LP12 BEARING OIL: Alternatives...


Here’s a little journey I recently completed.

 

I have read endless threads on the importance of the correct lubricant for the LP12 bearing, so I decided to experiment.

 

For reference, my LP12 is circa late 1980s.  Fluted plinth, pre-Cirkus bearing and Ittok arm.  It was originally a Valhalla model, which I upgraded to the OriginLive DC Motor Kit.  My beloved Shelter 501 II LOMC cartridge completes the ensemble.

For many years I have been running good quality automotive transmission oil in the main bearing.  I have experienced no problems, but had a few ideas I wanted to try.

 

I cleaned the old bearing, removing all of the old red transmission oil with Qtips; and inspected the bearing.  It all looked okay with a very slight inclusion on the polished bearing face, where most of the platter load is carried.  Not too bad for a 30+ years old machine, I reckon.

THICK BLACK GRAPHITE GREASE:
First up, I tried some very heavy, thick and gluggy, black graphite grease.

I wanted to introduce some “drag” on the motor to see if it provided any useful sonic advances.

The outcome was terrible.  There was just no way I could get the speed stable – even after running the combo at 78rpm overnight – something that is easy with the infinitely variable OriginLive motor controller.

Out it went.

 

SILICONE SIL0200 OIL:

Next up, I wanted to try an oil that provided massive vibration dampening.  After another thorough bearing clean-up job – with the aid of white spirits to break down the black graphite grease – I opted for high quality 200 (medium viscosity) Silicone oil and got spinning.
Right from the start, speed stability was spot on, so I progressed to serious listening.
Frankly, I could not believe what a massive difference the silicone oil made to the sound.  On the upside, the sound was purer and more refined than I could ever have imagined.  Like a load of artifice had been removed.  On the downside, dynamics were severely impacted, to the point that I simply could not live with it.

Out it went.

BERNINA SWISS SEWING MACHINE OIL / NULON E20 MODERN ENGINE TREATMENT:

Finally – after another thorough bearing clean-out job – I opted for the popular thin machine oil option.  I went with the Bernina Swiss Sewing Machine Oil, but added the Nulon E20 Modern Engine Treatment oil additive in the hopes that I could halt any further bearing wear.  The final mix was 80% Bernina / 20% Nulon.

(Always loved that 80/20 rule that applies to so much of life…)

Right from the get go, speed stability was spot on, so again I settled in for a serious listen.
This was fantastic!  My LP12 had never sounded better.  The dynamics were back in full measure and much of the purity that the silicone had revealed, also remained.

Everything just clicked-in and sounded superb.

It stayed.

 

Job done.  Time to sit back and spin the black stuff.  Loving it!

 

…But ever the fiddler, I am thinking about giving the later Cirkus bearing a try.


128x128sondeknz
I tried something similar once  and like yourself and too noticed a big improvement. I was surprised at how much of a reduction in friction there was.

However in the end paranoia got to me, remembering stories about how the 'black oil' was necessary to repair the constant bearing housing damage caused by such a heavy load.

On the other hand I did wonder how less friction could cause more damage?! Then there was the question of why Linn would use an inferior oil. 


A couple of points there are different LP12 bearings. Linn recommends light machine oil for the gold bearing with the white sleeve, as the tighter tolerance can cause it to seize. So these experiments cannot be generalized to all LP12 bearings.

I have one of these gold/white bearings, as well as three other color LP12 bearings and the tolerances seem to be different in all of these. Linn’s recommendations will be, at least safe for the various LP12 bearing types in terms of both wear characteristics and freedom from bearing seizing. Sound quality is more a subjective thing.

I believe that bearing friction and resistance due to increased oil viscosity are different things. Grease, or heavy oil has more resistance, but that doesn’t mean that the bearing is being friction damaged. Does it?

I don’t think that equating the bearing that turns most freely, or the bearing that sounds the best, with the least friction between the male, and female parts of the bearing is correct as oil viscosity plays into the equation.




VIRIDIAN

I agree with you.

Having a heavy lubricant that creates some sort of "drag" or resistance has little or nothing to do with how well it prevents wear on the bearing.
(I accept that there is probably a relationship there...)

That said, my bearing with LINN WHITE (Teflon) sleeve and SILVER bearing face, performs much better with the thin oil brew - than it did with the black graphite grease.

I didn’t run the black graphite grease long enough to comment about its wear prevention.

And I guess I will find out over time, if my current BERNINA/NULON oil brew prevents wear. Frankly, I can’t imagine much wear taking place - while it sounds so darned good!
I agree, there is minimal likelihood of increased wear with the silver/white bearing and your mixture of oil. You should get many years of enjoyment out of it.

The after market Tiger Paw Tranquility bearing uses magnetic repulsion to reduce the load on the bearing. It’s an interesting enhancement that many of the Linn cognoscenti have embraced.
Yes magnetic repulsion simply has to be a good idea with any heavy platter/ bearing combination. Given that the magnetic field is shielded and does not affect the cartridge.

Personally I'd prefer a lighter platter anytime as long as speed issues are well controlled.
I don’t think that it is that simple. A conventional heavy platter/bearing combo creates a mechanical ground between the platter and the bearing, which is ultimately attached to the sub chassis or plinth, depending on the design of the turntable.

If you float the platter, the mechanical ground is removed and any vibration in the platter must then be dissipated by the platter. Anecdotal results with the Tranquility seem to be very positive, but this may be an endorsement of the particular application and execution of the technology rather than a blanket endorsement if used in any and all applications. 

The platter the axle and the bearing are very precision made

by Linn. As far as i know only the bearing is changed. By each

bearing change different oil is recommended. Using other oil

is not sensible because this can change mutual tolerances.

@nandric  Yes, this highlights the problem with most tweaks, namely that you know better than the actual maker of the product.

If it was so easy then why doesn't the maker do it? Is it actually a good mod, is it cost effective, do we know better than the manufacturer, are there safety concerns etc etc. 

It might be worth contacting Linn for their response. Apparently they're quite hot on engineering.

cd318, I don't believe the answer by Linn will be understood

by most of us ''not technical persons''. If I remember well by

making the platter 200 treatments on (CNC) lathe are needed

to get perfect balance . Compare this with , say, Thorens platter

and you will see the difference: no drilled holes to balance the

platter. By such precision technical explanation is unavoidable

while we are not able to see nor understand fractions of one

millimeter. Consider those persons who want to improve the

 speaker wire in speakers. The German designer of those

''Audio physic'' speakers was asked why he used such ''CHEAP

wire'' in his Caldera. His answer was: ''we deed try about 20

kinds and thought that this one sounded the best''.