My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?


So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham

Showing 6 responses by gammaman

My F113 blew and was fixed on warranty.  Same thing happened (loud horrible noise when plugged in but switched off), now off warranty.  Suspect its due to those cheap caps having blown.  jlithen, did you post your photos of the fix anywhere?
Not sure if the resistance is what is printed on them, but it is as follows:

R541: IR50
R543: 2211
R544: 1500
Just removed the circuit board from my F113, and I can see that when I sent it in to JL for repair they had indeed replaced the 35v/100uf cap that netforceatg posted a picture of, in fact they had put in a 105°C unit. Until I replace it I won't know if the same cap went bad again, but will use a 125°C spec this time. Have to wonder if there's a design flaw.
Sorry doro, the unit is back together so I can't tell you the number of R542. I replaced the 35v/100uf cap and it didn't help.  I spoke to JL, and they said in addition to the cap the output FETs are blown! Since this already happened once to me they are going to fix it again under warranty. As the unit failed both times while in standby mode, after I get it fixed again I am going to leave the sub off completely, ie not in standby, while not in use.
I haven't sent mine in for the second time yet. Once I get it fixed, I will leave the power completely off at the surge protector so the unit won't be in standby mode when not in use, since both times it blew it did so while in standby. Not sure if this will help, but seems worth a try.
Got my F113 fixed for the 2nd time. No issues since, as I have NOT left it on in standby mode, as I believe the standby power supply is the root of the problem.