Ever consider the aggressive sound might be coming from your components or more likely those metal dome tweeters and mids in your Legacy "clones"?
Power cords and cables in general will only do so much and let's face it, they're often used as bandaids or tone controls as in your case. |
Rfogel8----I'm in total agreement with you that the metal dome mids & tweeters exacerbate brightness in recordings.
I don't believe either the PS Audio P-600, Wyred4Sound ST-500, or Consonance Droplet are bright themselves. I believe my system allows brightness nowhere to hide. I'm sure the speakers are the culprit but, they can be so revealing that many others seem veiled in comparison. They are also too big to get rid of without considerable effort and, I LIKE THEM. It just takes more effort to get them to behave as I wish.
As to the comment of cords/cables as bandaids or tone controls. so? Aside from the ideal of neutralality, what isn't a tone control? Where you sit to listen and even your mood is, to a certain extent, a tone control. Call them whatever you wish but cables are as valid a method to sculpt your sound as your component choices. Do you take issue with using cables this way? Thank you. |
Audio is like lasagna. Everyone has their favorite recipe.
There's no right or wrong. |
Perhaps you might want to take a closer look at your crossover in the speakers. Perhaps a cap change in the tweeter to something with a gentler disposition might be the uptimate answer. Something like a Mundorf Silver and Oil might smooth it out without losing any transparency.
Just a thought.
Bob |
Bob is on to something. If you really want the best cap in those crossovers try the Duelund VSF copper foil caps, be prepared to be blown away by the naturalness! No other cap I've tried comes close to these, two sets in my Merlins which use a highly transparent/resolution tweeter, absolutely amazing!
For all those unaware, Duelund has just come out with a high voltage cap for electronics. I may eventually change out all my caps for these. Won't be cheap! |
Lcherepkai, No, I really don't take issue with cables as tone controls to "sculpt" the sound. I personally find them quite necessary to bring out the best in a system and look at them as a means to do a little fine tuning. That is, after putting together components and speakers that already work reasonably well together no matter what cables are used.
Some components and/or speakers may never sound good, no matter what cable you throw at them. Changing a wall outlet or the end of a power cord strikes me as something akin to grabbing at straws.
Sorry to offend but after reading your trials and tribulations with power cords, plugs and wall sockets, hoping to tame aggressive sound, I can't help but think you're spending your money, and lot's of it, on the wrong things.
Regards |
I agree with Rfogel8. The OP's problem lies elsewhere than wire (which he's admitted).
Sometimes, it's very difficult to make the decision to correct the problem, particularly when doing so present a hassle. However, the result of correcting the source of the problem will be many months and years of enjoyment without the stress of applying band aids. |
I would really like to upgrade the crossovers. It's been on my "to do" list for quite some time. I even shipped them up to Meniscus Audio a couple years back and they said they were just fine the way they were. That doesn't inspire me. Perhaps one of you know a good and affordable shop or individual who would be interested in upgrading my crossovers. Also, could someone take a rough guess as to what it would cost? The speakers are 4-way, six-driver. If possible, try to give me a best case/worst case scenario. Thanks! |
Rfogel8---If I came across as offended, sorry. I can be rather direct but I wasn't offended; perhaps frustrated though. These speakers replaced a pair of Von Schweikert
VR 4 Gen II's and, after I lined them with Dynamat (damping) and wired them internally with Anti-cables, they've been better in almost every way (the VR 4's had a tighter image though much smaller). I was driving the mid-bass, mids, & tweeters with an 805/300B tube amp and the woofers with a Consonance Calaf (bad reputation but excellent bass) and the source was a Consoance SACD 2.0.
The sound was warm and full-bodied though not quite so extended on top and certainly lower rez. I gave up the tube amp because the heat was a killer and I couldn't possibly waste that kind of money on tubes again. I know these speakers can do magic. I've heard it.
I don't believe my components are a bad match either. It may just take a little more work to get "there". Changing cables, plugs, and outlets is easy. I'd much rather ship these cross country than components. I'm not really spending much on them either as I usually sell what doesn't work and buy something of similar price (although this economy has made that difficult) and the $100 I spent on the Oyaide R1 was a minimal investment which, as I indicated in a previous post, has taken me about 80%+ toward where I wanted to go. I may try the Oyaide M1/F1 plugs and see if that finishes my work (for now!!!)
Tvad is right about lasagna. My recipe is just a little more work than yours. Thanks and enjoy. |
The only reasonable cost way your going to upgrade the crossovers is to either change out the capacitors yourself, or find a local tech to change them out. Speaker crossovers aren't dangerous from a voltage standpoint so you could change them out safely. If you're handy with a soldering gun (which I assumed having a DIY design speaker)do it yourself.
To keep costs down I would only change out the tweeter caps to start with (maybe the mids as well). Boutique caps cost, how much depends on values. I would expect caps alone would cost anywhere from $100 to maybe 1k, all depends on values, cap chosen and who does it. To do all my Merlin caps with Duelunds will end up costing somewhere around 2.5k, well worth the money in my estimation. |
Sns---A fellow A'goner may do the crossover upgrades though I couldn't possibly afford the kind of caps you mention. I'm certainly out of my league when it comes to $1000 caps. Since I put an Oyaide R1 in the wall and run my power conditioner from there, I hear practically NO bite. I had to play Harry Belafonte's Greatest Hits on CD to make my system bite (if you have this disc, then you know how EXTREMELY bright some of the tracks are). I hope the more affordable cap upgrade will improve focus and maybe bring out a little more detail. But, for all purposes, my problem is fixed. All who offered actual help, recommendations, or advice, thanks so much! |
Hi Martennis:
There is one cord that will probably fit your requirements. The power cord by David Elrod is about the best I have ever heard. The original cost of this cord is around 5K, which is beyond the means of normal mortals! however, you will find them, (Rarely) on Audiogon. Previously Owned cords will sell for 1K to $1400, still very expensive! I believe that if you invest in one of David's miracle PC's, you will never feel the need to upgrade it. It is that good.
I think I know what you are after. Terms like laid Back, focus, haze and clarification are buzz words first initiated by all those tech writers describing and evaluating gear. To put in Lay terms. I think we want clean clear sound with clean layered bass. If you attain the upper and lower registers you seek, the all important midrange should fall into place. I feel that with the proper synergy between components and connecting wire, "Laid Back" along with high definition is attainable. Very often when one perceives a bright presentation, it may be the result of IM distortion. something as simple as stranded wire, delivering the signal nano seconds apart. the resulting output sounds like shrill treble, however is distortion that fatigues the ears. You might try building one yourself, it isn't difficult. With oynaid ends, you can build a very good cable for $150 that would retail for $500 to $1000. Virtual Dynamics has some wonderful instruction videos on the subject. take a peek. Very good luck to you.
Best/ DR Cervantes |
Hello Lcherepkai:
That same Virtual Dynamics site has a Salon area where they show various tweaks and cable building techniques. There is a complete segment on tightening and replacing the Woofer screws, and the reasons why. This is a very informative site. Link below.
http://www.virtualdynamics.ca/eps-1-10 |
Hi Martennis:
You might try the Spectron amp with "Sensing Speaker Cables" This class D amp is set apart from all others. developed by the famous John Ulrick. These amps operate at the speed of light, and will blow away any other Class D and almost anything else out there. |
