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Power Cords Rule

Just finished another DIY power cable using Ohno Continuous Cast copper. This is the third cable added in the past two months, the first two for my ARC mono blocks, this latest for my Wadia 861SE CDP, now over ten years old. I am trying to wring every bit of performance from this player, modified by GNSC. This new cable has lifted that old player to a new plateau of sound stage and clarity; there's just more information in the music not previously heard. All of these cables have first replaced Transparent Reference AC cables, and, after those, three other DIY cables containing OCC copper but with a PVC dielectric not well-suited for AC cables, but vastly superior to the Transparents, circa 2002. My newest versions have polypropylene dielectric over a combined 8 AWG OCC copper, mated to Furutech rhodium plugs. All together, these AC cables have improved my system as much as upgrading the front end would have, IMO, and that would also require a pre-amp in going away from Wadia. And so, my fellow audiophiles, this is where it's at--get that clean power and those great power cables--make 'em yourself--all else depends more on that source of pure power than your other cables can achieve, good as they have to be, as well. Every piece of your system will improve with a purer current--any way you can get it.
128x128jafreeman

Showing 4 responses by posbwp55

posbwp55
8 posts
 
I have a question for Melbguy1. Can you describe the sonic character of the Jorma Prime PC's? Are they on the detailed side of neutral or the full bodied/lush side? Can you compare them to a few other High end PC's for context? What are you trying to change/improve by adding the M1/F1 connectors. Thanks for you response.

Bart
posbwp55
8 posts
 
Melbguy1, Thanks so much for the excellent and detailed explanation. It is exactly what I was looking for. I am currently using CH Acoustic X-20 (2) on my Bybee Stealth PC and APL Master (modified Esoteric X-01), Valhalla (2) on my Esoteric Grandioso C1 preamp (it uses 2 PC's) and one Argento FMR on my Esoteric Grandioso S1 amp. The weak link are the Valhalla PC's. The PC's I am considering are: Mexcel 9500, Ch Acoustic X-20 and Jorma Prime or Origo. By the way, I added the F1/M1 connectors to the CH Acoustic from the Synergistic Black outlet to the Bybee PLC. It was a noticeable improvement. Thanks again.

Bart
posbwp55
8 posts
 
Melbguy1,

Thanks for the added info from yourself and Jafant. I am guessing in my system, based on the differences described here and in online reviews,  the Origo would be a better fit than the Prime. I am generally very happy with the sound and balance of my system. If I were to nitpick, I would think it could be nudged slightly in the direction of more detail. I have been a lifelong tubeoholic until fairly recently. I have a large collection of high quality NOS tubes. In the past I could experiment with minor tweaks inexpensively (relative to PC, IC and SC swaps) through tube rolling. I currently have only two E182CC's in the output stage of my APL Master SACD player. There are only two options here and one clear winner. Tube rolling is not an option in this family. It is possible with patience to pick up high quality cables used and if they don't work out, take a small hit on resale. Clearly, I am not in the financial league of Melbguy1 and Jafant. No jealousy, I am actually grateful that they can afford to experiment with components and cables regardless of price. I also trust their opinions and recommendations much more than audio magazine reviewers for obvious reasons. With patience and the information gleaned from the experiences of high end users on this and other sites, I can find a used PC here and there that I can try with some confidence it will be the right fit. Have you guys tried the Origo vs Prime PC's? Am I right in assuming that the Prime is a tad warmer than the Origo? Thanks.

Bart
posbwp55
8 posts
 
Melbguy1,

Good idea on using a Furutech GTX-D (R) for the wall outlet to gain detail. I am going to run three dedicated lines using the following outlets: SR Red, SR Black and Furutech GTX-D (R). I have three different Bybee Stealth PLC's that use SR Red, Furutech GTX-D (R) & (G). This will give me the flexibility I used to get from tube rolling. Jafant, keep us posted on your PC demos. 

Bart
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