Power Re Generator capacity questions

If I head down the conditioner road rather than the regenerator road, are you partial to any of the RSA, RS or Shunyata models in particular?

I looked at a couple used offerings like the RS Dimitri (accepts 2400W - the magic number for me) and the Shunyata Cyclops V1...  

They definitely ARE cheaper and less current limitations.  I just hope that it would provide the dramatic auditory difference over how I am hooked up now and as good as regenerating the power.

First up not sure why you expect any of these devices to provide a "dramatic auditory difference". Yes power conditioning matters and in a very highly resolving (often high $$$) system these small differences are very important. I’m not sure your system is quite this level (no disrespect), but they should do no harm and if purchased used you can always resell at minimal loss to you.

As far as regeneration is concerned there is nothing really special, a regenerator is in effect just a big dedicated power amp, and just as power amps are sensitive to power in so are regenerators (cord swapping on your PowerPlant will be quite impactful). Other manufacturers use other approaches to smooth out the issues with the power from the wall and in my experience the solutions from RSA and RS (which I use) worked much better than the PowerPlants. Caveat I owned a First Generation power plant (in fact three of them at one time) and while they worked they ran hot as hell and were quite unreliable. I’m sure the current P10 is much more reliable and efficient

However if I was in your shoes I would jump at the Dmitri, I see one at a good price with an HZ power cord -- this is exactly the model I used to use for all my source components. Unfortunately I cannot speak to its use on Power Amps, at the time I used a Sound Applications RLS-1 for my power amps which I liked, these are pretty rare however but they really get out of the way of big amps which is what you need

I currently use two SR PowerCell 10UEF, one for front end and the other for the amps. I see a bunch of 10SE MkII available and just one should work for you, I only use two because my setup has sources and amps separated (see my System listing). The one possible downside of SR is that SR components like to work with other SR components, so simply buying one piece of kit may not be the best step for you, if you want to get in on the SR bug (as you can see I have) then a PowerCell could be a good first step. Please also note that my power is preconditioned by a Torus in wall power conditioner as well -- so that’s $20K of power conditioning in just these three devices.

I’ve no experience with Shunyata but others rate them, just have never heard. And no I’ve never done a conditioner "shoot out" -- my experience with conditioners is get a good one and then optimize the hell out of it in the context of your system (i.e. fuses, power cords, wall outlets etc). A well optimized (tweaked) system using good to average components will tend to outperform the best components poorly set up, and of course the optimized system will show the impact of your component upgrades as you make them.

Anyway don’t worry about it too much, my main concern is that you not buy a component that will not work for you

I appreciate you caring whether I get the right piece for me or getting something I will just have to roll over on the market.

The gear that you see in my setup (and no disrepsect was taken) is optimized to some degree.  Most of it was purchased and modified.  Both Adcom amps were modded by Stan Warren.  The Oppo player is the modded NuForce Extreme Edition 93.  The Modwright has swapped Russian Military Tubes, A handmade Reimer surround speaker setup.  Upgraded power and 5.1 analog wiring for surrounds.  I have put some work and money into what I plainly listed for the system.  That is why a move of this nature to purchase a good power setup can make a big improvement in my system.  It is the one step I haven't spent enough on in the chain up to this point.

I am seriously considering bidding on that Dmitri on your recommendation.  Trying amps and source gear through it and keeping the sub powered through the Power Wedge (making the wedge now exclusive to the sub].  I understand you haven't used it for your amps so can't speak to it.  It certainly appears from specs to be able to handle the current draw I require.

Sounds like the Dmitri would be a good next step, and with the money you save you can experiment with power cords which I've found to be very impactful. Lots of good options out there and good value and low risk to buy used -- have fun!

Llippman, I'll just add the following thoughts to the excellent inputs and analyses you've been provided with above:

1)Before deciding how to proceed, I would suggest that if you don't already have one you obtain a good quality multimeter and measure your line voltage, preferably during the day and during the evening, on both a weekday and a weekend.  The further removed it is from 120 volts (in either direction), at the times during which you generally listen, the greater the likelihood that a regenerator will be beneficial, IMO.  The reason being that in most cases components sold in the USA and other countries where 120 volts is standard are presumably designed to sound their best at that voltage.

2)Estimate and take into consideration the length of the house wiring between the outlet(s) which power the system and the breaker panel.  For example, if that length is 50 feet, and the breaker is rated at 20 amps, chances are the wiring is 12 gauge, and an increase in power draw of say 1500 watts that may briefly occur on dynamic peaks in the music would then result in a corresponding brief voltage drop of 2 volts, due to losses in the wiring.  If that length is 100 feet, a 4 volt drop would briefly occur on that dynamic peak.  The greater that fluctuation in voltage, the greater the likelihood that a regenerator would be helpful.

3)Keep in mind also that if the system is powered via a single 20 amp breaker, the maximum amount of power that is available from the outlet(s) is/are approximately 20 amps x 120 volts = 2400 watts.  Although power demands above that value resulting from occasional very brief dynamic peaks can presumably be supported without the breaker tripping.

Good luck.  Regards,
-- Al