Sony CD player CDP XA 20 ES question

Well if anyone has an idea where to find the "stabilizer" for this unit, PLEASE let me know!

Dale.

I tried that, they don't even recognize it as being one of their models any more.

You might be able to get ahold of a new puck via Sony service??

Any of you guys know the difference between the XA20 ES and XA3 ES cd players? Both look identicial to me...

I owned one of those units about 10 years ago... Sound quality is very good, and it is an exceptional transport!

Anyone know the difference between the CDP XA20 ES and CDP XA3 ES Sony players. They look identical to me...

The 'puck' could be machined out of copper to make a replacement. The main thing is finding out the approximate weight of the original, and it's height. The center hole naturally needs to be right.
My SCD777ES uses a puck too. My puck is made of brass.
Maybe you can find a precise technical drawing of your puck.
Getting one made should not be too hard.

Thank you, I think I need to find this stabilizer before I take the unit in for "repairs"!

-Dale-

Thanks for your responses. I've since found out that this player is supposed to have a "stabilizer" which as best as I can tell looks like a 3/8" thick 45 rpm record adapter, that you sit on the disc over the center spindle before closing the drawer. If this is amongst the load of stuff I got, I'm not able to readily find it. Anyone know if this player would work without the stabilizer? Thanks!

You need to use the puck it comes with. Won't work without it.

Please make sure you are using the supplied cd center weight, if not the unit will not respond.

This unit was the next model down from the highly praised
Sony XA7ES. Parts for both these units are iffy at best due to age. Problem could be a lazer and sometimes parts are on Ebay. Worth fixing if possible..Good luck.

You should take the top off, and look at it when the drawer closes.
Does it even spin the disc?
If not, then try starting the disc up by hand as soon as it pops in place.
Sometimes it is the motor gets ' stuck.'
If it spins and no data, then the laser is not working. It may be a cap, or the laser itself. or even some other thing.
Usually the whole sled the laser sits on is a replacement. and usually worth doing.
Most of the time the new laser is not as high quality as the original, but it still is worth the bother.

Replacing stuff like the whole sled is easy. IF it is a snap in exact replacement (like four screws and a cable) . If it is not calibrated correctly, then an expert may be needed to recalibrate it. Though trying to replace it IS worth doing oneself as it is so easy...