Black glass KenRad 6SN7s take the cake


I've been experimenting with 6SN7s in my VAC 70/70:

ElectroHarmonix: good tube! and great for the price. Much better than I though it'd be, but ultimately sounded too edgy and sterile. Good control throughout, and good detail.

Sylvania VT231: twinkly and brilliant; great detail, tight bass, but much less fatiguing than the ElectroHarmonix; nice and smooth, but still lacking in the mids for me.

TungSol black glass, round getter: better than the Sylvania, in that it was a bigger sound. Lost the twinkly and brilliant quality. Good detail. Good overall, balanced tube. Nothing outstanding I thought, relative to the other tubes I tried.

KenRad, tall, black glass: THESE KICK!! very lush, deep, BIG BIG sound; the absolute best midrange; detail was good, and surprisingly, this tube is NOT DARK. very smooth, and less reserved sounding than the other tubes. Let's it loose... and that's the one drawback; the bass isn't as tight the TungSol or the Sylvania, but it didn't annoy me. What I gained from this tube far outweighed this drawback.

...that's just what I thought of these tubes in MY system. Who knows if these qualities translate to other pieces.
128x128dennis_the_menace
Twl- Have never seen a "black base RCA 5692." The red base
RCA 5692s that were used in my MFA electronics(preamp & amp front end) had plenty detail.

Very interesed in your speaker system. Where can I get
details on the drivers and cabinets?

Aloha.
Kana813, I referred to Black Plate 5692, not black base, although there are black base RCA 5692 tubes. The Red Base 5692 is the famous "sought after" one, but there are non red ones also. Also the "Black Plates" are actually really deep charcoal grey.

My speakers are Voigt Pipes that use Lowther EX3 drivers. You can find info on the drivers here:

http://www.lowther-america.com/

And you can find Voigt Pipe plans here:

http://melhuish.org/audio/diy12.htm

The Voigt Pipe plans shown here are the same as what I used from the Lowther Club of Norway, but this guy used a Radio Shack speaker in his. It doesn't matter, the dimensions are exactly the same.
The Lowther Club of Norway has removed the plans from their site.
If you are going to make these you should contact me when you get ready to do it. I've been down the road.

The sound is awesome for low-power SET amps. Of course, the bass is quite sharply rolled off below 40Hz, but I don't miss that too much. Even the really good multi-way designs don't really go too much lower than that, in reality. Most are -3db at 32 or 28Hz. Unless you listen to alot of organ music, you'll never know it. The lowest note of a bass guitar is 41Hz, so if you mostly listen to popular music, its fine. That's only half an octave less bass in the least used area for music. The rest of the spectrum is spectacular, and the imaging is the best. Small sweet spot, due to directionality. Incredible dynamics and detail. Totally coherent. High end goes to 20kHz. Get the new series of drivers, as the previous upper midrange anomalies have been worked out. Don't buy a used pair over 6 months old. New is best. The EX3 will cost $895/pr and will give 100db with 1 watt input, when loaded into the Voigt Pipe cabinets. A 45 or 2A3 amp is plenty. A 300B is more than you need, but still sounds great. I ran them on 1 watt for 6 months with my MicroZOTL, but I felt I needed a little bit more headroom. My new Berning custom 45 amp will be here in a couple of weeks.

You can build the cabinets out of MDF for under $100. If you want fancy wood, you can do that too, but it costs more. I recommend that you at least make the front panels out of a good hardwood. It looks better, and it takes away a little harshness that the MDF has. I used oak fronts and MDF backs, and they look great and sound great. I also made a modification to mine that reduces the baffle-step effect under 380Hz. Due to the narrow cabinet design, the baffle reinforcement of the frequencies under 380Hz drops off due to wavelength. By adding some "swinging doors" to each side of the Pipe, you can bolster the mid-bass frequencies, and make the frequency response alot smoother in this area. Also, since they swing, you can tailor the backward angle on both sides to give adjustability to your midbass response, and tailor it to the music and to the room needs. If you need more info on this mod, email me for details. I have been living with these for about 6 months now, and I have no desire to look at any other speakers. These give me everything I need.
twl, I thought about "synergy" on pre input vs. amp output, but concluded that was a red herring because, theoretically, and in my gut, I feel the pass through on the berning should be best - or at least good enough for you to base a broad opinion on the tubes versus each other.

Haven't looked at my SylVT231's in a while, but I know they are NOS in army boxes with original packing from 1942, so assumed those were the good ones...

If your WGT are different, I am, of course, intrigued; always looking to learn something.

On the metal base, I never wanted to pony up, but a few who did with the Supratek thought they were not what everyone has said. Maybe the rep comes from pro guys, or the Glass Audio article a few years ago, but people's consistent reaction, coupled with the cost, made it easier for me to back away.
How about those black glass National Unions? Anyone try and compare those to the black glass KenRad VT231?
Asa, my WGT are Navy types from WW2. I expect that they would sound very similar, if not identical to the VT231 army issue. The "W" designation is also a mil-spec suffix. I am not sure what the mil-spec difference is between W and VT231. I know my WGT were Navy sonar tubes. Since you already have VT231's, I don't think it would be worth moving to the W or WGT, because I don't really know that you would be gaining anything. If it was strictly for curiosity's sake, that may be worthwhile. At any rate, I would be quite satisfied myself with a good pair of VT231's from that time period.