Monoblocks vs Vertical bi-amping vs Horizontal bia


In attemps to raise the sonic bar of my system, I'm considering my options which includes using a single stereo amp, mono blocks, or 2 stereo amps in either a vertical or horizontal biamped configuration.

Q1: Who out there has experience in how each of the above scenarios differs from one another. If you read Dennis Had's article on vertical biamping at his Cary web site, you'd think that that is the way to go but how does this differ from monoblocks which accomplish the same thing (i.e. one amp used per channel for all frequencies)?

Q2: In which situations do the various amp scenarios best lend themselves (room size, listening levels, speaker sensitivity and ohm rating etc. etc.)?

Thanks for your input.

Kevinzoe
kevinzoe
Hey guys, thanks for all your feedback. Now that we have our vertical and horizontal biamping definions sorted out, I'd still like to know why one would go with monoblocks vs vertical biamping as each amp is still only pushing one speaker load? I don't believe this question has been fully addressed yet.

Also, If I were to use two identical stereo amps and compare the sound from a vertical biamp config to a horizontal biamp cofig, would there be any differences in sound between the two approaches? Is one likely to sound "better" than the other? Have any of you tried it and if so what'd 'ya discover?

Are there general guidlines or rules of thumb that can be used to indicate situations where one amping scenario is better than another? For example, I have KEF Ref Series 104/2 speakers at 91dB and 4ohm which are a bit soft in the bass so a SS amp would be great while using a SET tube amp for the mids/hi's. In this situation I could see that you might be gettin the best of both worlds rather than using just a SS or tube amp in either a vertical or horizontal config. Thanks for your input.

Kevin
It would be hard to combine SET with SS I think since SS usully has more wattage than SET.

I was using ARC CA50 (45watts)on HF and Aleph 3 (30 watts) on LF. Theoretically, the HF should be 1.5 db louder, and I definitely can tell the difference. Good thing I am not a bass freak.

Anyways, in most cases, I would think horizontal bi-amping sounds better since each amp has a narrower frequency range to work with. This allows the PSU and whatever filters in the amp to perform more efficienty. In actual practice, you'd have a smoother sound and more realistic transients between HF and LF.
Kevinzoe
It would be ideal to have Mono amps to drive each driver to each speaker.That being said it is also very expensive using world class amps plus the active crossover.If you have the $$ go for it.
You would be taking the drag out of an amp being used to compensate for 2-3 driver's.

Using an outboard active XO you are bypassing the internal XO within the speaker unless you use that same XO and reconfigure it to add Pots and circuits for adjusting for output.There is no use for it.Wth an Active XO you would using control pots to compensate for how much power is being used for each driver.

Believe me I am new to the equation also,but it is what pro's are going into now.One I read recently does not see buying any speaker over $500 without it having an outboard active XO.

SET's are not ideal amps to use in this configuration as someone had mentioned.I think a Dual Mono amp might suffice instead of Monoblocks to save space and get the same results.

You have to look at the driver efficientcy also.Tweeter's might not need 300watt amps unless you are driving the Mids\Tweeters with the same amp or going the vertical route.

I am in the process of getting my speaker's and will know more then.It shall be intresting.

The thing to remember about which ever way you decide to amp is that you are freeing up watts so that the driver's can be driven more efficiently.Weather going Vert or Horz brings about better sound has alot to do with a number of factor's.

In the final analysis you will be getting better results because you are freeing up the power to be dedicated to individual driver's.

What drives me nuts is what amps I should use to get the best performance.I have 2 B&K's and it might be wise to use the same Manf..I would only use B&K's that have been modified though ,so that brings up cost.I might use a Adcom,McCormick for Bass and B&ks for the Mids and Tweeter's.Class A or A\AB amps that are biasd to run closer to ClassA are the best amps to use in any situation.Monarchy and Black Knight amps are good choices.Then you get into Krell territory which gets to be ultra expensive.Some even use Bryston amps.SO you have to do some research.

KEF I believe is well aware of these things and and give you the option tp add an outboard XO at a later time .So I would consult with them to see what they have had good experience with or other KEF owner's also.I think that's what your speaker's are.

I found this all confusing at first myself and it will be experimentation till I get it all set up,but there are advantages to doing it.I am a purist and this seems a step in that direction from everything I have been told.It was the original designer of my speaker's that got me intrested in this trend and he is very knowledgeable.

Hope that helps!
Hello, I believe Chucker terminalogy of vertical vs. horizontal is reverse. Veritical: tweeters over woofers, one stereo amp to tweeters (L&R) the other stereo amp to woofers(L&R); Horizontal: one stereo amp to left (tweeter & woofer) the other stereo amp to right (tweeter & woofer). IMO
How is all this wired up please? Someone on another thread suggested that I think about bi-amping, as my speakers sound much better when I biwire them from the two sets of terminals on my amp. It is unclear to me though for either vertical or horizontal bi-amping how the wiring is done from the preamp. Can someone please explain?
Thanks