2. amps-preamps
  3. 1100060997

Need advice on good, clean, stable power

This is the chronology of my "bug," i.e. the "need" (or want) to upgrade.

* Yamaha RX-1400 clipped 4 full size and 1 center speakers during an intensive shooting scene of Tears From the Sun. I heard loud popping sounds from some speakers when volume was blasted off.

* I was advised by many A'gon members to get a multi-channel amp. I got the Marantz MM9000 (150wpcX5), which is plugged into a power cleaner with surge protector. Currently, the surge protector is Monster Powerbar 2100, but that will be changed to Monster HTS 3500 tomorrow in hope to get more cleaner power.

* Many A'gon members recommend to bypass the power conditioner and plug the multi-channel amp directly into the wall outlet, preferably a dedicated one.

My question now becomes if I do not want to install a dedicated line right now, would a more feasible alternative option is to use a regulator like the Monster AVS 2000? Monster Cable claims that the AVS 2000 regulator provides continuous 120V power, which in my opinion serves a good purpose for the multi-channel amp.

Sorry for I am not an electrical engineer, but that AVS 2000 sounds like a working solution for me. What do you all think about this route, or do you have some other suggestions in mind. Thanks for all the help with valuable advice.
lej1447
rodge827's avatar
rodge827
468 posts
 
Hey guy, take it from somebody who has been there. I did the panamax,monster, and other various "conditioning' products. The cheapest and best bang for the buck is to install a dedicated and isolated line. You can go for the very resonable materials found at your local H-Depot, or for not that much more go for the products dedicated to audio found on this site. Just remember this; All Good Sound Begins At The Wall!!. An isolated line will help to get rid of most of the line noise. This type of line is used in hospitals,computer centers,and wherever sensitive electronic equipment is in use. Depending on your panel box to system configuration your cost could be very minimal, approx $100.00-$200.00. Then look into a good power cable.

As far as your "flu shot" I'll be the first to inform you that its too late. If you are on this forum you've got the bug! The quest to improve your audio system will always be a matter of importance for you, get ready for a long and interesting journey.
Rodge
lej1447 OP
117 posts
 
Thank you Yioryos. It seems easy and very informative. Besides, Yioryos, do most of you hire some body else to do it, or do you DIY? Do most of you run behind the baseboard or inside the wall?

I have to spend time to think about this b/c I have crown moldings on ceiling with speaker bi-wires running behind them already. I have wood floor with baseboard as well. Circuit breaker box is far from the audio gears. I am not sure how to run them along the wall and entry door or patio door. Do they have to run inside conduit?
rodge827's avatar
rodge827
468 posts
 
Lej14447,
Yioryos has given you a good insall procedure to follow. If you have a basement or crawlspace utilize it, run the wires there, exposed is ok just get some wire staples to keep things in place.
As far as the wire reccommended go with a 14/3 or better a 12/3 wire. This is important for noise control. Inside 12/3 wire you will find 4 wires, black, white, red, and a naked ground wire. The bulk of all line noise comes from the non-shielded naked ground wire, don't use it for ground, instead use the shielded red wire for ground, get some green electrical tape and wrap the exposed red wire, this will help to avoid confusion if someone else looks at your panel box. Green is the universial color to indicate ground.

I did this same procedure to an audiophile type isolated outlet and found it to be a huge improvement over a standard dedicated outlet.
Good Luck
Rodge
lej1447 OP
117 posts
 
Rodge827,
Thanks for the good tips. It sounds so easy and fun that I want to drop every thing and run straight to HD now. :> )

Actually, let me check the breaker box to see if I have any extra slot and think of a way to conceal the wire for WAF.

Ever run those wire inside the wall and patch them up? If I decide to run between the wall, should I try to run those wires along with those already near the outlet?
rodge827's avatar
rodge827
468 posts
 
Lej1447,
It is always best to try and run your dedicated line on its own path. However, in a finished construction insallation, this may present a problem. If you have no choice but to run your line along the same path so be it, but try to keep them seperate. As far as patching holes in the wall that would be your choice. I have an extensive backround in finish construction and patching wall holes can be a real PITA, blow-out patch + joint compound + dry time + 2nd coat of joint compound + more dry time + sanding mess + paint matching..... Get the picture. Try to make as few holes in the finished wall as possible, less work for you.
Hope to have been some help.
Good luck,
Rodge
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