Circuit breakers and dirty power

Larry, I agree with you about the 5362. I bought a bunch of Hubbell and Pass&Seymour chocolate and vanilla ones if anybody wants any cheap. The Hubbell may be slightly sturdier than the P&S, or the Hubbell/Bryant, but ALL Hubbells and P&S's have great clamping strength, which is a big part of their performance........ The improvements in lowered noisefloor and more open top octave from using a shield-drained and all-Teflon dielectric line (like the 83803 (12AWG) and 83806 (9AWG) are usually quite noticeable...just like in a PC similarly manufactured. But there are SO many variables in systems, ambient noise, tweeter and hearing rolls, etc......... I'm still a dis-believer re cryogenic treatment of conductive materials. My belief is that the cryogenic process may SLIGHTLY affect the stabilization of the DIELECTRICS involved, hastening burn-in. But there are better ways to accomplish this for some dielectrics that can withstand ceratin other processes that are easier to perform.....Re circuit breakers I'd suggest that "exercising" them a few times with contact cleaner is more important than cryo. JMO. Cheers.

just don't use a GFI breaker electrically they're very noisy.
The quietest mains connection can be had by using a subpanel with an Edison fuse, vs. a circuit breaker.
The switching transients from the water heater may possibly be adequately isolated by running the audio rig on a DEDICATED CIRCUIT. If that doesn't completely stop the noise then you'll need Audio Prism Quiet Line, or some other transorb such an a GE V130LA20B M.O.V. installed across the line. Many line conditioners incorporate MOV's integral to the design.

Thanks to all who responded. I am not sure of the model # of the Hubbles that I have. I ordered them at work through a Mcmaster Carr catalog. I will look them up Monday again to see which they are. I know they are orange with no model # printed on them. Again, thanks