Is my preamp useless?


I enjoy my current system, which is built around a BAT VK-52SE preamp. I listen mostly to digital, via a Bryston BDP-2 player into a PS Audio DSD. I also enjoy vinyl on my VPI Classic/Dynavector/Sutherland 20-20 combo. Like most of us, I’m usually on the upgrade path. For me, the next component to upgrade would be the BAT preamp from a 52SE to a 53SE. But something occurred to me. I don’t listen loud. The gain on my PSA DSD is set to less than 100 and the BAT preamp is usually set between -20 and -10. So if my volume control is never set in the + range, is my preamp doing ANYTHING other than attenuating the volume and serving as a multi-input switch? Is all that Super Tube, single gain stage, zero feedback, high energy storage circuitry a waste of money?

Don’t get me wrong. I am very pleased with the sounds I hear. But if my pre isn’t doing anything, then I’d be better off to sell it and get a very simple passive attenuator, wouldn’t I? If that’s the case, what brands and models should I listen to?
Thanks for any advice.
slanski62
Slanski62, try the passive! The complaints about lack of drive, thinness or lack of involvement using a passive are completely system dependent. I am currently using a passive (Audio Synthesis) to Manley tube monos via 5m (!) of Nordost, driving 93db efficiency speakers and the results are fantastic. There will be exceptions to every "rule" proposed in the posts above which will depend on the particular components in your system, the particular passive you use, and your own sonic tastes. For instance, in my system, the passive brought significant improvements in the areas of transparency and tonal refinement with no loss of dynamic verve; there was a reduction in tonal fullness compared to my active pre, but the change was a welcomed change since my system was overly full sounding to begin with. You will never know the real answer to your question until you try it.

Re Nelson Pass and the integrity issue: Isn't it obvious that even if a manufacturer believed that a good passive is potentially superior to any active (I believe it can be) in a specific system, that given the fact that an excellent active will work well in many more systems than a passive will with its much more specific requirements, that this is the reason that a manufacturer such as Pass chooses to offer active preamps?

Slanski62, did I say "try it" :-)
+1 Frogman. If the OP is still around, remember that Frogman is a musician who is intimately familiar with what real instruments sound like and is fully committed to maintaining the tonality, drive and emotional impact of a performance. I think the takeaway message is try it, you might like it. If you do, you're way ahead of the game. If you don't, then you might want to consider a lower gain active.

And w respect to Nelson Pass' quote- I agree completely w Larryi. And of course there are lots of people who have systems that do not meet the criteria for using a passive. For example, George's LSA (a great product, I own one) does not have source switching or a monitoring circuit. All passives have limitations with respect to matching upstream and downstream components. If you are of the camp that believes that eliminating the need to attenuate the source signal is the "ne plus ultra" of system building, then go passive. If you have other criteria, then go with them. Think of system-building as a design exercise (which of course it is). There are always design trade-offs. ALWAYS. Even in "cost is no object" kit. Your final design will be based on how you value the different elements involved in each trade-off. If cost:performance ratio and transparency are your most important design criteria then an LSA might be the way to go, and then you need to base the rest of your design around that element. If a control center providing source switching and RIAA equalization in one package is your primary criterion, but you also really value transparency and channel tracking at low volume, you might want to consider a full-function pre w a phono stage and a TVC. If you have to have source switching, an RIAA equalization circuit and a remote, then you're probably going to want an active w a motor driven volume control. Add transparency to the list and it's going to have to be a very high end active. Etc, etc.
Hi. Original poster here. I’ve been following this discussion with interest, and I didn’t know it would become so controversial!

A couple of thoughts:

Trying my DAC direct into my amps is certainly a good idea. I need to re-arrange my equipment so that my interconnects will reach both amps. I’ll try to do that some time this week.

Is the Luminous Audio Axiom a decent passive? It uses a conventional resistive ladder network for attenuation. It’s not a lot of money, so I won’t be risking much.

Finally, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of love for BAT in this group. I expect their next to top-of-the-line (at the time) would be pretty decent. If you disagree, please tell me why. Thanks!

"03-23-15: Slanski62
Hi. Trying my DAC direct into my amps is certainly a good idea. I need to re-arrange my equipment so that my interconnects will reach both amps. I’ll try to do that some time this week."

This is the most sane comment in this thread so far, as it will cost nothing, and the gains could be massive.

Cheers George
"Mr. Hansen of Ayre has stated that passives will outperform actives in suitable systems until one gets pretty high up in price for the active unit. There might be some truth in that.
Larryi (System | Threads | Answers | This Thread)"

I think you're right about Pass and the Ayre AX-7 has a passive line stage. His reason for not using an active is that he can't make something active that sounds as good for what the AX-7 sells for.