How much am I missing with SL1200 mk2?

"I've heard good things about the Denon. However, my built in phono stage is suited best for MM or high output- ruling the 103 out. Correct me if I'm wrong."

Yes. Unless you can bypass the internal phono stage, you'll need to use a MM or a HOMC.

"I'm jealous of you that have shops that are willing to loan gear, etc. I'm surprised it's not the case in my hood. Maybe someday!"

If you live in the US, you can always use The Cable Company. They will send you demo units of anything they carry before you commit to a purchase.

If you insist on a high-output cartridge, try a Goldring Eroica High-Output. You're cartridge is fine if you just want to hear some sound, but if you want to get more out of your system, you're going to have to spring for something much better. But not so much that the arm can't take advantage of it. I think the Goldring would work well. They're good carts.

I don't have any recent experience with a 1200. The last time I used one was as at college radio station 35 years ago.......but I would think that a WTRP would be a good change. You could even get a WTTT or classic at a decent price used. Forget the 103 and go with a 301 mkii when you up grade your phono stage.....or grab a 110 until you have the extra cash for a phono stage and cartridge up grade.

For two or three hundred dollars, you could upgrade your SL1200 to compete with $1500-2000 turntables, and exceed many of them in certain parameters.

The SL1200's strengths are high torque combined with low noise, rugged construction, speed accurcy, and smooth, slick, user-friendly controls.

The high torque combined with low noise provides good dynamics, bass extension, and rhythmic drive.

The cheap'n'easy tweaks include:

1) A better platter mat; Google around and check some recommendations here. The Herbie's Way Excellent mat is a good place to start, and so are some of those leather or hair-oncowhide models.

2) Get a low-cost record grip; you'll get more consistent tonal balance and s/n ratio regardless of record weight.

3) The stock feet look effective but they aren't. An easy and inexpensive solution is a set of Vibrapod Cones set on top of Vibrapod #2 Isolators. You unscrew the stock feet, set the threaded sockets (that used to hold the feet) onto the steel balls of the Vibracones, and then set those on the Vibrapod Isolators.

4) Wrap the tonearm in Teflon (PFTE) plumbers pipe thread tape. It's one or two bucks a roll; you need about 18" of it, tops.

5) Upgrade your headshell to a ZuPreme from LPGear.

6) Place the turntable on a hardwood butcher block style cutting board. Mine is 3-1/2" thick and made of end grain rock maple. You can also put gel pads or more Vibrapods under the cutting board to improve isolation and vibration reduction.

For a bit more money, add the following upgrades:

7) Have KAB rewire your tonearm with at least OFC copper, or get his very reasonable hyperlitz cable, or the Cardas.

8) Get and install the KAB tonearm fluid damper trough. Fill the trough no more than 1/3 full.

I have done all the above except the tonearm rewire because I have an SL1210M5G, which has OFC tonearm wire.

For a sanity check, I visit my high end store's annual open house where I hear state of the art systems including some pretty sophisticated turntables. Across the street from them is a store that carries Pro-Ject, the full Rega line, and Roxsan. So I'm regularly exposed to $2000-10,000 belt-drive turntables. I never come away from these sessions wishing I had a better turntable. In fact, I marvel at how well my 'table does certain things and how well it holds up against the Rega and Roxsan's strengths.

Oh, yeah: the Audio Technica AT150MLX is wicked fast, articulate, musical, extended, quiet, and linear. Great match for your turntable. I've been using mine for seven years.

Johnnyb53,
Great information in your post!
Thanks!