Conrad Johnson CAV 50


Just acquired this beauty from my father in law. I've never owned a tube amp, so not sure if I should sell it, or keep it and pay him. Anyway, a question for you tube heads. One of the EL34 tubes in slot V7 ( a tube which can have it's bias adjusted, which I assume means the power transmitted) has it's red light constantly on. I turned the bias all the way down and it still flickers. However, I noticed that my left speaker sounded blown/distorted. When I turned the bias up, the distortion decreased. The instructions say to turn the bias down/counter clockwise, until the red light goes out. But, if I do this, it sounds bad. So, my question is this. Is it simply a tube I need to replace to fix that problem, and if I change one tube, should I change them all. Next question is I searched for the EL34 tubes and of course there are a large variety of them. Any thoughts. To me the amp sounds little bright with the Celstion SL6's I am using, so any warmer tubes would be nice. Also, if I were to sell this setup, any idea on what I might ask on pricing? Thanks.
Roly
rolyasm
Jond, a little trust would not be misplaced. After all, I had the CAV50 and, as mentioned, owned most CJ tube gear.
"control amplifier" is how marketing people tried to differentiate it from an integrated amp. 

rolyasm, has your CAV50 been diagnosed yet?
Jazz no mistrust was implied or intended dude I promise! And yes Roly any updates?
It has been a crazy holiday season for us. Finally just decided to stop trying to research all of the other tubes as well and just ordered some  JJ E34L's. I was up late last night trying to find some 12au7 and 12ax7, but started getting pricey since I don't know if the amp will need a major overhaul yet and I read that if I send in the amp for upgrades, often times they replace your tubes for you. So, waiting to buy other tubes but the EL34's should be here shortly and I'll see what they do. I am not hopeful it will fix the problem and not looking forward to shipping that beast to C&J.  I noticed some fuses (auto looking, blade-type) under the hood and behind the EL34's, so maybe I'll take a look at those today and make sure they aren't blown. 
If I keep the amp, which I probably will, I need to start looking for a great pair of speakers for them. I know Klipsch are super efficient, but typically too bright for me. I have seen several reviews and blogs about good speakers for them, so I'll probably start that search as soon as I test the EL 34's. $$$$$ It's always about the cash. Boo for not being rich. haha.
 You all have been very helpful. I'll keep you updated.
The tubes arrived, I installed them, let them warm for an hour, biased, then turned on some music. And.....the problem may be fixed. So, interesting thing when taking out the old tubes. All of the tubes had no markings on them but one, which read EL34G. That tube was in the paired channel where I was having the problem, though in a different socket. I only change the "bad socket" with another tube from the other channel, but never changed out that EL34G tube. It seems strange that a neighbor tube, in the same channel, could have been causing the bias light to light up and stay on its sibling tube, but that seems to be the case. So... now I have to find some amazing speakers to try out. Any suggestions for something that isn't super bright, has a high sensitivity and doesn't cost over, say $800? I know that isn't a huge budget. Thanks again for all your help. I have the old RBH speakers hooked up now and the sound pretty good. I have a call into RBH and have sent them pics so they can give me the model number and specs. They are old. No markings. I'll keep you posted.

Found out the info on the RBH’s built in 1993. 2 pairs, but I am listening to the larger model, the 812. The smaller speakers that match it are the 63’s. Here are the specs:
Specifications for 812: System Type: Acoustic Suspension 2-Way Woofer: 8" Long Throw Polypropylene Tweeter: 1" Liquid Cooled Polydome Tweeter Protection: Poly Switch Controls: Constant Impedance Tweeter Output Crossover (’ Frequency: 3COOHz. Attenuation Rate: 24 db/Octave & 12 db/Octave Asymmetrical Recommended Amp: 20 to 150 Watts (unclipped) System Impedance: 8ohms Frequency Range: 45 to 22,COO Hz Efficiency (SPL): 89db Cabinet Finish: Real Walnut, Oak and Black Oak Veneers ~aker nnection: 4-Way Gold Plated Binding Posts Cabinet Dimensions: 19" H X 12" w X 10.5’’ D Weight: 33lbs. each
and the 63’s: System Type: Acoustic Suspension 2-Way Woofer: 6" Long Throw Polypropylene Tweeter: 1" Liquid Cooled Polydome Crossover Frequencies: 3000Hz. Attenuation Rate: 12 db/Octave & 6 db/Octave Recommended Amp: 5 to 80 Watts (unclipped) System mpedance: 8ohms Protection: Poly Switch Protection Circuit Frequency Range: 60 to 22,000 Hz Efficiency (SPL): 89db Cabinet Finish: Real Oak and Black Oak Veneers ~aker nnection: 4-Way Gold Plated Binding Posts Cabinet Dimensions: 12" H X 8" w X 7" D Weight: 10 lbs. each ShipQing Weight: 25 lbs. / Pair

I know it is hard to tell much from stats, but would a more efficient speaker be better suited, or is all I am missing out on is the ability to go loud? Right now I can the volume to about 45% before it starts to distort a bit. I wouldn’t mind a bit more volume. Wish I had some Klipsch laying around just to test them.