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Should I build plinths or screw spikes into cabinet?

I've got a great old pair of B&W DM640 floor standers, but I don't have the plinth and spike kit that were sold as an option back in the '90s.  Since I have been unable to track down a kit online or directly through B&W I am planning on building my own.

The speakers themselves were built without any isolation system on the base of the cabinet, and were set on top of adjustable "lugs" which were incorporated into the top of the optional wooden plinths.  Each plinth had four basic spikes mounted at the corners.  This sounds easy enough to replicate.

Does it make more sense to simply drill into the base of the cabinet and mount the spikes directly?  The tweeters are nearly at ear level, so I don't need to lift them much.  I am a little hesitant to make any permanent alteration to the speakers, however.  Any opinions or alternatives are welcomed!
guitared
bdp24's avatar
bdp24
4,908 posts
 

The Ingress are the best deal around in roller bearings. He now offers a version made to Barry Diament’s specs: a highly-polished single cup made of 7075 aluminum, with a large diameter, shallow bowl (the result of machining the shape of the bowl to follow the curve of a very small section of a very large sphere) to achieve a very low mechanical filter corner frequency (of around 3 Hz), and 3/8" ball bearing. $90 for a set of three, half the price of the Symposium Acoustics Roller Block Jr’s, and of a superior design.

I've just about accepted the fact that I'm getting two sets of three Seismic Pods to put under the Sound Anchor stands my ET LFT-8b's are on. About $800-$900, but justified by the degree of improved sound (or so I've been lead to believe ;-).

faster61woman
28 posts
 
guitared, You should go under your house, find the area to support with bottle jacks and 4x4's. (or equivalent), After this, (if needed),you may look at look at other options above.

(All of this will keep you under your $100.00 target... I'll make a bet that it will be the ticket...just requires some effort.)
meerzistar
232 posts
 
Be careful if there made of press board. Threads are a good idea (already mentioned). There are several good options. If you send me a PM I will show you something I came up with for ye old English towers. It widened stance and has them firmly planted. It made a sound improvement.

One option thats OK. If your going to go right into the cabs cut some 1/4" pieces to bond to the bottom, and uses spikes with wood screw type threads on opposing ends. IMO this is more durable than some of the other options. 
faster61woman
28 posts
 
My post was out of what I feel to be the need to address the main issue first: your suspended wooden floors. (I have a similar issue) This should be done first and addressing this basic issue will be beneficial for every aspect of your listening pleasure and system upgrades from now on.
Good luck!
faster61woman
28 posts
 
The main reason I like (spikes), it allows me to fine tune speaker placement which I find to be critical. If you don't feel a need to drain vibrations away, the Vibrapods may be one solution. Some may have monitors that allow this adjustment to be made between the speaker and the stand.

I've found that with suspended wooden floors, there will be (out of level) floor issues that require a more thoughtful approach that may include having several methods of adjustability.
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