I was talking with a guy in Cali today Fritz from from Fritz speaker, and it came up, to just put a variable resistor in there and tweek it until it sounds right. I don't know I've got half a mind to just ditch the Tara's and find a cable that works with it.
HELP AFTER MY MODS, My tweeters are subdued and weak-
So I have a pair of Mirage M1 speakers, I changed the caps in the crossovers to Jantzen Superior Z (for the tweeters) and standard z for the mids and bass.
I also changed the internal cabling to Supra Classic 2.5.
First Impressions- Not burned in yet
The highs are there but really recessed in the background. Theres a song I reference and it has a steel guitar solo, I can bearly hear it through the vocals because its seems recessed so far back.
SO HERES THE QUESTION- Is that a symptom of unburned in cables and or caps, or is that just what Supra cables give you?
When I changed the internal cabling a few years back on the same model speaker, I used DH LABS t14 Silver plated cable, This had the opposite effect, it was super bright and fast, but it smoothed out and the brightness relaxed, leaving a lot of detail but not so much your ears bled.
But here its the opposite, its dull on the top end and the vocals kind of take over and blur out the top end.
I also changed the internal cabling to Supra Classic 2.5.
First Impressions- Not burned in yet
The highs are there but really recessed in the background. Theres a song I reference and it has a steel guitar solo, I can bearly hear it through the vocals because its seems recessed so far back.
SO HERES THE QUESTION- Is that a symptom of unburned in cables and or caps, or is that just what Supra cables give you?
When I changed the internal cabling a few years back on the same model speaker, I used DH LABS t14 Silver plated cable, This had the opposite effect, it was super bright and fast, but it smoothed out and the brightness relaxed, leaving a lot of detail but not so much your ears bled.
But here its the opposite, its dull on the top end and the vocals kind of take over and blur out the top end.
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- 78 posts total
I'm not able to read carefully, so I may not be understanding correctly, but I think the issue is that Tim hasn't seen this problem before. :) I have, and I've gone through the modelling. This would be the third or fourth time I've seen this issue in total, and the fix is always "magic." :) What no one believes until they see it is that the problem caused by the low ESR tends to not affect the section the caps are in, but the next one up. That makes it maddening to trouble shoot. People spend all their time and effort trying to fix the HP tweeter section, but the problem is caused by the mid or woofer section (whichever is next down). In a 3-way, these impedance issues can be compounded. The issue isn't really whether you use polar or non-polar. It's the total ESR that is playing games with you. Tim is quite right that having 2 caps in series is going to double the ESR, so maybe that one could need an extra 2-4 Ohms. With a little hacking of a couple of audio cables you can make your own cap measurement jig and use Room EQ Wizard. That will be pretty accurate and cheap. Best, E |
Hi Ida, I sent you a link which explains all of it. Room EQ Wizard is a free speaker / room measurement software which has been enhanced to also do impedance measurements. This includes speakers, caps and coils. It has a vibrant following, and you'll need to ask their discussion groups for more answers, but here is the link to the software: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/ And in particular, here is the description of how to do impedance measurements with it: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/impedancemeasurement.html But I don't actually use it, I use low-end hobbyist/pro gear instead. Still, this would be among your cheapest options. Best, E |
- 78 posts total