2. cables
  3. 131091-80940

connect 2 different wire gauge to pos and neg speaker terminal

what happens if say Kimber kable 12 tc to pos and lowes 10 gauge grounding wire to neg side or 12 tc biwire  to pos and lamp cord to neg
chalmersiv
geoffkait's avatar
geoffkait
14,147 posts
 
One last thing. Over, I think it is on the Directionality of wire thread, someone posted a link to a largely mathematical article from, I believe it was the Journal of Physics, that described how energy travels down a conductor. The article was used by the posted to support the popular idea that energy travels completely OUTSIDE the wire, not inside the wire. Yet, that very article - in the first couple of paragraphs - states very clearly that energy is traveling both inside the wire AND outside the wire. The mathematics for both energies are subsequently described. I already acknowledged that (some energy travels outside the conductor) might be true a couple of weeks ago. Furthermore, based on that evidence, the mathematical evidence, I hereby declare this current argument a tie. The peer review tribunal can take a break.

chalmersiv OP
10 posts
 


I have

4- 8 ft lengths of  dh labs q 10....each length has 2 x 12 ga and 2 x 14 ga...

8- 8 ft lengths of dh labs t-14......each length has 2 x 14 ga

4- 8 ft length of solid copper  8 ga grounding wire from lowes sheathed in heat shrink tubing shrunk only at ends...

many other copper speaker wire from radio shack flat braid to 8 ga stranded

how do I connect to 4 post bi wire speaker terminals....

I have run  4 of the t-14 to each speaker and it sounded better than 1 run of q-10...1 length of t-14 to each terminal

if I use 1 length of q-10 to each pos terminal what do I use for neg terminal or suggestions for connection needed

thanks, chalmersiv

almarg's avatar
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almarg
8,673 posts
 
Chalmersiv, the answer to your question is of course not predictable with any kind of certainty, in part because cable effects are dependent to a significant degree on the technical characteristics of what is being connected.  And in the case of a speaker cable, among other things on how the impedance of the speaker varies as a function of frequency, as well as the nominal impedance of the speaker, and perhaps in some cases also on the amplifier's output impedance and on how much feedback its design incorporates.

But as I mentioned earlier the inductance of a speaker cable can be drastically degraded (i.e., increased) if the + and - conductors are not in very close proximity.  Although whatever significance that may have will depend on the impedance of the speaker at high frequencies, and also on the length of the cable.  And I note that the description of the T-14 cites low inductance as one of its key features, while the description of the Q-10 does not.  That despite the fact that the materials used for their conductors and dielectrics are apparently the same.

So for that reason, together with what has been said earlier about the + and - conductors having essentially equal importance, I would recommend against using any of the cheaper wires you listed for the negative conductors.

What I would suggest that you try, if you already haven't, is using BOTH the T-14 and the Q-10 in parallel.  And in each case with the conductors that are enclosed within a given cable jacket being used for BOTH + and - (which if I understand your last post correctly may not have been what you were doing), rather than for just one polarity.  Also, I'm not sure if I understand whether your Q-10 is configured with a sufficient number of connections for biwiring, but if not use it in parallel with the T-14 for the bass connections, and use the additional T-14s alone for the mid/hi connections.

On another note:  Jim & Kijanki, thanks again for the nice words.  Kijanki, in response to your question, no, I have never been a teacher, and I have not ever had any particular desire to be one.  But in my career working in a corporate environment I have always found it advantageous to be able to communicate in as clear and precise a manner as possible.

Also, speaking of being knowledgeable, I'll mention that Jim's (Jea48's) knowledge of all things electrician-related continually amazes me.  And I've certainly learned more than a few things from his posts over the years.  As well as having had the pleasure in various threads here of the two of us successfully resolving more than a few problems people have had with their systems.

Best regards,
-- Al
 
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geoffkait
14,147 posts
 
Am I the only one that detects a self congratulatory and self serving tone in that last post? Especially in view of the fact he went to such lengths to answer a question he clams he didn’t even understand. More high hilarity on the forum. The fun never stops 😀

jea48
2,944 posts
 
@almarg,

AC transmission using wire conductors.

Al,

Could you please explain in more detail the relationship of the electromagnetic wave, that travels in the space outside of the conductor, (At near the speed of light), and the "current" that travels very slowly slightly vibrating back and forth at 60Hz in the conductor. From what I understand the movement of the current in the conductor is quite slow.... Correct?

The electromagnetic wave is caused by the applied source voltage and the "current", "charge", in the conductor? (Amount of current in the closed circuit determined by the resistance of the connected load. I = E/R)..... Correct?


Am I correct in saying you can’t have the electromagnetic wave without having current? Install an on/off switch in series in the circuit. Close the switch the current passes through the switch contacts through the load and back to source.... Correct?

The bigger the load, the more current in the conductor. The more current in the conductor the larger the electromagnet wave.... Correct? And of course the conductor, wire, must have a current, ampere rating, to safely carry the current in the wire so the wire will not overheat.

IF the wire is too small to handle the amount of current in the wire is it the current that causes the wire to overheat or is it the energy of the electromagnetic wave? Please explain in detail.

.

Not to confuse things, if only a voltage, (potential), is present, an electromagnet field will exist outside of the conductor/s without there being current... Correct?

.

I know it is the energy, from the electromagnetic wave, that makes a heating element heat up and gives off its’ heat into the surrounding air around it. It is not the "current" directly causing the resistance element to heat up.... Correct?

I know the amount of energy consumed,(in watts), by the resistance element is determined by the source voltage and the resistance, in ohms, of the resistance element. E / R = I and we know the current..... Correct?

The Fuse.....

E x I = P

E = voltage

I = Current, amps

P = power, energy, measured in, watts, VA

A fuse rated at 2 amps with a maximum voltage rating of 250V. herman said it is the energy of the electromagnetic wave passing on the outside of the fuse element link that causes it to melt and blow open when the fuse is overloaded.

OK

Isn’t the size, (for lack of a better word), of the electromagnetic wave energy determined by the applied source voltage and the current in a closed circuit? E x I = P. Is not P the energy of the electromagnetic wave?

So say the load is 150 watts and a 2 amp 250V fuse is used to protect the load. The FLA of the 150 watt load is, 150W/120V = 1.25 amps.

Here is where I get hung up. As you know a 2 amp 250V fuse can be used for any voltage 250V or less. It could be used where the voltage is 24V. The ampere rating of the fuse is still 2 amps. So to me the current has to be some component that causes the fuse to blow when the current that passes through the fuse link and exceeds 2 amps in the time curve set by the fuse manufacture. NOTE I did not say current flow.


WOW,... I know,..... I sure have a lot of questions on my mind. Blame herman.

Very best regards,

Jim


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