2 Jl audio F113 problem solved
Can cables of any cost and quality provide bass response missing in my B&W speakers?
I'm sure variants of this question have been offered previously, but let me ask in light of the following: I have a very modest main system powered by an Adcom 555II amp, Adcom GFP-750 pre-amp, and run into a pair of B&W CM-4 speakers (6.5in woofer, 6.5in. woofer/mid. and tweeter, and bi-wireable). Any music with a moderate-to- heavy bass component (organ, bass fiddle, etc) just doesn't translate to my ear. I'm using a mid-range pair of Monster cables, and in fact tried a second pair of Z-Series to no audible difference. On the other hand I have a legacy pair of a/d/s 1090L tower speakers (2x7.5in woofers, 6in. mid-range, tweeter) that deliver thundering bass when needed regardless of cabling used, and powered by the same system. Even tried passive bi-amping for the B&Ws by using an old Carver M-500t amp for HF input, and Adcom amp for LF input...no diff. Is there any point really in looking at higher-end speaker wire of, e.g., thicker gauge, or exotic geometry, or multi-conductor "shotgunning", whatever, in order to induce greater LF response from the CM-4s? Thanks for your patience.
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I agree with a lot of comments here. Attenuating your speaker’s capabilities through cabeling doesn’t seem like the best solution. I would add stereo subs to handle 35hz and below. Pretty impressed with my SVS subs, great price, look and sound of course any quality sub will work great. Speaker placement can be a factor and something to look out for when you add subs so you aren’t sitting in a null or peak due to your room characteristics. This can be controlled to some extent by EQ but even better then stereo subs is a sub array (4 or more subs.) Getting involved in the physics of sound and measurement is fun but also gets complicated quick. Be careful chasing the white rabbit, you never know what you’ll find. |
Compass_Rose. Others here spoke of "polarity." But, what I can gather from what they spoke of? Was to check the "phase" to make sure both speakers are wired the same. You may find if you reverse both speaker's leads - red to the black, and black to the red- that will reverse polarity. If one pair of speakers was designed with reverse polarity one pair will produce less bass. Simply reverse the leads to BOTH speakers. Then listen. Correcting the polarity should produce more bass. |
@compas_rose: This is in response to the question you asked in this thread on 12/22. Please bear with me while I get to your question. I want to start by saying that if you want to purchase speaker cables that are professionally manufactured in my opinion one would have a hard time doing any better than the Cerious Technologies Graphene speaker cables, they seem to work well with all types of amps, a heck of a lot of bang for the buck and I highly recommend them as others in this thread have already stated. If you wanted to spend more money consider the new Cerious Technologies Graphene Matrix speaker cables, although I have not heard them I've heard from good sources that they are excellent. I currently made, own, and use Duelund Tinned-copper in cotton oil impregnated wire 16 gauge, 12 gauge, and the Heavey Duty Western Electric wire 10 gauge. I prefer the sound of the Dueiund wire and I run the 12 gauge on the lower speaker terminals and the 16 gauge on the speaker upper terminals. I would say that the WE is a warmer fuller sound where the Duelund is clean, transparent and more detailed. I also use the KLEI™Classic Harmony Banana Connector (new product) on the speaker cables I made. Originally I ran the speaker wire bare, however, I believe the cables sound better with the bananas I mentioned. You might find this SAudiogon forum interesting: https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/how-much-difference-could-a-simple-banana-plug-make I'm liking what I'm hearing! |
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