amp (or receiver) recommendation for Polk Audio RTi A7 floorstanding speakers


I started off building a 7.1 home theater system. Based on advice received here, I changed my plans. I'm re-purposing some of my components to a dedicated music system in another room. I would like some advice on this music system. (I'm keeping the home theater system in the smaller room and using smaller speakers with it.)

I am looking for a music system that will give me smooth, sweet, soft, silky treble with instruments like the Indian sitar or sarangi. These instruments can be challenging. I hope the system also has clarity and detail and enough punch for alternative rock in a large room.

I have two possibilities for listening location. One room is 18 feet x 22 feet with a tile floor, floor to ceiling windows on back wall and 8 foot ceiling. The front wall has a book case.

The other possible room is about 25 feet x 40 feet with a vaulted ceiling (approx 16+ feet at center). Back wall is also mostly glass. Flooring will be wood soon, but for now it is carpet. Neither room has curtains (or any window treatments) over the windows.

My old room was 11.5 feet x 11.5 feet and these speakers were too much for that small space (along with a large TV).

Let's assume I can arrange either new room so that my listening position and the speaker placement closely conforms to the "golden ratio" (http://www.ecoustics.com/articles/stereo-speaker-placement-optimum-sound/).

Here are the components I already own and would like to use:

  • pair of Polk Audio RTi A7 floorstanding speakers (8 ohms) - Sensitivity (1 watt @ 1 meter): 89 dB. Recommended Amp Power Per Channel: 20 watts → 300 watts
  • pair of Polk Audio RTi A5 floorstanding speakers (8 ohms) - Sensitivity (1 watt @ 1 meter): 90 dB. Recommended Amp Power Per Channel: 20 watts → 250 watts
  • Klipsch RP-250C Center Channel Speaker (probably won't use)
  • Klipsch R-112SW Subwoofer 600 W, powered
  • LG UP875 4K BLU-RAY PLAYER (plays audio CDs) (features HDMI, USB, and optical digital audio output)
  • computer with Asus X99 Deluxe II motherboard featuring Crystal Sound 3 audio (https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-DELUXE-II/) (features USB, HDMI or optical S/SPIF output)
  • Focusrite Scarlett 6i6 USB audio interface (if needed) (https://us.focusrite.com/usb-audio-interfaces/scarlett-6i6)

Music will be played from my computer or the LG UP875 disc player.

What I have in mind is a 2.1 system with TWO pairs of front speakers (4 speakers total). I tried a dual front speaker setup briefly and I liked it, although I understand it is unconventional. But I have the speakers and I would like to try using them all. (If that is a really bad idea, even in a larger room, I'll give up on it.)

Also, I am curious to try bi-amp'ing and the speakers support it. If I use dual front speakers and bi-amp them 8 powered channels are required.

In a smaller room, I would not need a subwoofer with these front speakers. I don't know how that will turn out in a larger room. I don't listen to bass boosted music. But I assume I'll need a subwoofer. I assume I will not use the center channel speaker at all. I can return it.

Here's what I anticipate I'll need:

  • something with an amplifier
  • something with a sub out for the subwoofer
  • something to connect everything together (and, I guess, let me choose between the disc player and computer as sources)

What I do *not* need from the new components:
  • analog input sources
  • streaming, WiFi or networking (other than what I do with the computer)
  • home theater features or video support
My budget is about $1000, although I have some flexibility. But I only have about $2300 invested in the other components (not counting the center speaker, which I won't use, or the computer which is multi-purpose). So it doesn't seem to make sense to spend a whole lot more.

I am new to audio and home theater. I'm just learning now and I want to gain some experience before I increase my budget too much. Later, if I purchase much more expensive speakers, I'll get a more expensive preamp / amp combo. In my (limited) understanding the heart of an audio system -- where the money should be spent -- is the speakers and the amp. But with my most expensive speakers (the A7's) being $600/pair, it seems unreasonable to spend more than $1000 on a preamp+amp / integrated amp / stereo receiver (whichever is recommended) for this setup. If my logic is wrong, I guess I could be talked into increasing the budget to $2000 or so.
lowoverdrive
you can also find a factory refurbished 801 for $699 and 701 for $549  - just to make it more complicated...
What if I set up the music listening area in 1/4 of 1/3 (or 1/2) of the room? Ido not require that the sound achieve a certain level all the way in the back of the room, for example. The room will be open, but I can establish my listening position closer to the speakers if needed. Will that work?
If you set up the speakers part way back in a very large room, it will help with volume issues, but will alter the balance of direct vs. reflected. It's not ideal to do it that way but lots of folks have to overcome/work with room limitations.  The sound you are hearing is a combination of direct radiation from the drivers in the speakers and reflected sound from all of the various surfaces in the room. There is software that allows you to simulate influence of the room by inputting speaker location, listening location, room dimensions and even furniture. With most speakers, it is useful to have them set up a fair to moderate distance from the walls behind them and to the sides (feet vs. inches).

Some kind of CD player and computer files played directly from thecomputer (via USB or HDMI or optical digital audio out on the computer), or I could pass the computer's audio out through a Focusrite Scarlett 6i6.

That's why I recommended the Peachtree or similar integrated with a built in DAC and multiple digital inputs that accept coax (aka SPDIF), USB and toslink connections.  The DAC in the Peachtree integrated, or even a modest stand-alone DACs like the myDAC will be superior to the one in most computers. 

swampwalker - I'm a little confused by the different Peachtree models and some comments I have seen in reviews. I don't see the Peachtree Audio Nova 220 SE integrated amp listed at the places I need to shop right now. Also, it seems to be a bit pricey.

Some reviews have mentioned these things:

* no LFE out for subwoofer
* USB input is limited to 16-bit/48kHz, even though the DAC itself is fully capable of 24-bit, 96kHz signal processing.
* The DAC is limited to 24-bit, 96kHz, which should be more than adequate (CDs and iTunes downloads are 16-bit, 44.1 kHz) for most people, but if you have invested in 192 kHz-sampled music, you probably should consider a different alternative.

I"m not sure if all that is accurate, but it simply means that I would need to spend more hours learning about Peachtree products before I could decide to purchase.

With multiple people recommending the Yamaha amps, that seemed like an easier decision... but what do I know?

Honestly, I feel like I probably should not buy anything until I understand the products better, but in spite of that hesitation I am going to forge ahead and buy *something* just so I can continue experimenting and learning.

So far the Yamaha AS 801, or the Yamaha P5000S with some as-yet-undetermined front end, seem like simple choices for me to take a next step.

What would be a good front end for the Yamaha P5000S power amp?

Or, If I'm going in the wrong direction, what else should I consider?

Keep in mind that my speakers are $600/pr. Until some future date when I invest more in speakers, does it really make sense to spend $2500 on a Peachtree integrated amp? That doesn't seem smart to me. From what I have read, I feel like I should invest the most money in my speakers.

Since I'm already not exactly following that guideline, I set an approximate budget of $1000 for whatever equipment I'm going to use to power these speakers.

If I could get a front end for the Yamaha P5000S ($650) for $500 to $600 that would be closer to my $1000 target. I can go over that budget if doing so is a smart decision, but with my limited knowledge it is more likely that I will NOT make a smart decision. I'd rather keep my mistakes limited to smaller amounts of money.

I also have the choice of the Yamaha AS 801 for under $900. That one was recommended multiple times. Maybe I should cancel the Yamaha P5000S and get the 801... I probably still have time to do that.

I'm open to any other suggestions of course. I appreciate all the opinions and every comment has been helpful. I know I'm not exactly going about this the ideal way, but I also have time constraints and other factors that limit some of my options (as I suppose everyone does).

Thank you.


" even a modest stand-alone DACs like the myDAC will be superior to the one in most computers. "

How does the Focusrite Scarlett 6i6 compare to myDAC?
https://us.focusrite.com/usb-audio-interfaces/scarlett-6i6

I already own the 6i6. It's designed for a different purpose, but it seems to work really well as a DAC.
Ah, you already own a decent usb etc DAC, at least that is what I understand the Focusrite to be (amongst a lot of other things)? Is that what I think it is? That makes it a lot cheaper, because all you perhaps need is an additional volume control in between the DAC and your great power amp (but from what I can see the Focusrite also has a volume control). With your beefy power amp I would suggest perhaps a basic analogue volume control as well, or for now perhaps some inline attenuators (plus a low setting of the gain controls on the power amp to avoid damage to your speakers): http://www.tcelectronic.com/level-pilot/
The only snag I can see is that your DAC has an rca output and the Level Pilot and the power amp have balanced xlr inputs. But there are cables to deal with that, and they are not even expensive (my son needed one too). Don’t get suckered into expensive cables.
All in all and for now I would not buy an extra DAC. I think you are done.