My JL Audio sub is dead. What exactly happened?


So at my wife's request, I hooked up a Roku to my main system. Roku is a device for internet streaming movies and tv. The connection between the Roku and my preamp, a Meridian G68, was a 12 foot optical cable.

The first night, I hook up the Roku and it works perfectly.

The next night, I move some cables around, then I hook up the Roku again, exactly the same way as the previous evening. I get picture but no sound. Weird. I pondering what I might have done wrong when out of the speakers... POP. POP! POP!!!

Uh oh.

I dive for the amps, switch them off. The POPs stop immediately. But...

Now there's a TERRIFYING HIGH PITCHED PULSATING NOISE coming from somewhere in the room. I finally realize it's coming from the sub, a JL Audio Fathom 113. I dart across the room, switch it off.

I stand frozen, savoring the final moments of the fantasy that maybe things aren't that bad.

Here are some questions in no particular order...

1. I suspect the amp in the sub is fried. Does that sound right?

2. Where did those POPs come from? Could a damaged optical cable do it? Or maybe the optical cable wasn't fully seated?

3. Do I really have to ship this 150 pound sub to Florida? Or do you think there's any chance of finding someone local to fix it? (I'm in L.A.) The sub is out of warranty, btw.

4. I tried to take the panel off the rear of the amp (I know, lethal voltages inside) with the thought that maybe I would just bring the amp portion of the sub to someone local to fix. I removed about 12 screws from the rear panel and still it doesn't budge. Why can't I open this thing?

If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. If not, thanks for reading.

Bryon

P.S. The rest of the system appears to be fine.
bryoncunningham
Statman,

To answer your question about how JL is able to ship new product....they have boxes for their new production. They do not have any “spare” boxes to sell to customers needing them for repair or other transit purposes. 

This is what JL has told me. I’ve been speaking with Shane from JL who has been very helpful and transparent with me. 

-Tom
I've a similar issue - as of recently, my out-of-warranty Fathom 113 no longer turns on and I'd like to check if the capacitor is the issue.

However, I'm running into problems at step 1 - how do I get the housing on this thing off? I took off the 16 wood screws but nothing is giving way.

Would very much prefer to test for an easy DIY fix before shipping this monstrosity out for repair!

Thanks in advance!
Use a hairdryer to gently heat the periphery of the backplate where it has the gasket seal underneath. After a couple of minutes going around, you should be able to lift it from the cabinet. 
Has JL Audio ever commented on these issues?

Have they rectified the faults or are they still selling units with these cheap parts?

Hello everyone. Newbie here.

Sorry to hear of the issues you are having with the v1 subs. I am in the market for a new subwoofer and saw a number of good deals of the Fathom v1 but this thread has pretty much eliminated that option.

Are the v2 subs good to go in terms of reliability or is that too new to determine at this point?