Have Passive Preamps Finally Come of Age?


Back in the late 90s (eons ago) I tried a variety of passive preamps (PPs). The most musical was an autoformer, but back then my system was not balanced. For the last decade I have been using active preamps, both tube and solid state, but finding a quality balanced preamp under $4K is damn near impossible. Enter the Parasound P5 (2.1), which in addition to having balanced I/Os, it has a separate bass management circuit (MSRP $1095), and I was hoping it would provide better control over the built in class D plates incorporated into my 2 SVS powered subs, whose volume controls are STUPIDLY sensitive: when barely cracked from zero they overwhelm. Alas, no bueno. 

Recently i watched a PS Audio YT video that was emphatic about NOT connecting powered subs with interconnects; instead he recommends speaker cables piggybacked off the main systems amp/s. I had a spare set of DIY flat copper cables, and was shocked how much better they sounded, but doing so did not change the  volume control problem and unfortunately this id not bypass the SVS amps whose class D chips are now ancient. Thinking there could be an impedance problem led me to revisit PPs.

I sold my P5 and was using the XLR outs from my Oppo 105 (upgraded power supply and IEC/wiring to the power supply) direct to my Emerald Physics 100.2SEs (class D). The noise floor dropped tremendously, allowing me a much better view into the music. My Core Power Technologies 1800 PLC had more than a little to do with this, but...  

Days of PP research later, I came across LDRs, which seem like the ultimate PP option, but XLR versions are ~ $2K and up, with the Tortuga coming in at $2700, seems like a true SOTA bargain, just not in my current budget. Scouring the' for sale' sites I came across a Hattor XLR (MSRP $995) which was in my price range. Hattor's www had links to 2 reviews both were extremely positive: one used it in combination with a class D amp. Bingo! I snapped it up.

It arrived late yesterday, although Hattor's www pictures look awesome, they do not compare to seeing and touching it. The metal carrying case was an indication of the designer's dedication. This is an etremely well made piece of kit, but how does it sound? Alas it came with no manual and Hattor's site does not have a PDF. How hard can it be to hook up? Well, after a couple scary minutes, I discovered that it would not light up until I connected the 105. 

Stone cold, the first thing that shocked me was a further reduction in noise floor and an incredibly wide and deep sound stage, but as can be expected, it was dry. Fingers crossed, in about a half hour I began to be rewarded with texture as well. Tis only got better as the night wore on

I hope somebody chimes in with their Tortuga experience, or any other high quality PP information.that goes under the reporting radar. 
tweak1
George,   Arik is on holiday, but I managed to score a AA Dac/Pre at a price that I can easily flip when/if I get the Hattor OpAmp upgraded.

Arik thinks I can do the parts upgrade here, but Im not that inclined as I don't have a high heat iron, or silver solder. Maybe he will send some solder.

I should have the AA by mid week to finally hear my system without impedance mismatches
tweak1 OP
  but I managed to score a AA Dac/Pre
Just remember if this dac/pre has it's volume control operating in the digital domain like most do. So you don't loose resolution, "bit striping" it's volume control should be used at or above 75% of full volume, or you run the risk of only getting 14bit or even less resolution, depending who much below 75% you go.

Cheers George
 
@tweak1 FWIW dept: our MP-3 preamp can be ordered as a balanced tube buffer with no active gain stage.
Hi tweak1 I am not sure if you referred to my review of the Nord Class D and Hattor preamp. I found the Hattor and Nord worked exceptionally well together. The Hattor can have a buffer amp added and even though mine has one I do not use it. I prefer the sound without it and the impedances all match anyway. I can plug it back in for those components where it does not match.
The main Nord amps use the nCore modules and to my ears, they sound better than the other ICE module (not tried them all) but of course, your mileage may vary. In your position, I would move towards the Hattor/Nord.
I use Audionote E silver signature speakers at 97db efficiency and even though on paper they look overpowered I find it gives a very relaxed sound and is always in control. It is clearly cruising with a bucketload in reserve.

Try to always use balanced with the Nords. I have all sorts of RCA/XLR convertors and cables but it seem like going backwards to get a high resolution preamp/power amp and then use single ended.
Anyway good luck in your endevaours and do not to forget to get off the upgrade cycle and listen to the music!!