Please tutor me on some integrated amp basics.


I’ve recently purchased Magico A3 speakers and a VPI Classic 2 SE turntable with an Ortofon Black 2M moving magnet cartridge. I have a Marantz SA 8005 CD/SACD player to play the few (maybe a hundred or so) CD’s in my possession.
I’ve mostly vinyl albums and no streaming sources. I’m next going to upgrade my old amp/preamp purchased back in the late 70’s with a new, probably integrated, one and am starting to do some research.

Here’s where I need some tutoring. A lot has changed since the seventies with the advent of digital technology. As well as I need to learn more about amplification components in the high end of audio technology. I keep running across terms I don’t understand. I’ll give you a list and if someone would be kind enough to explain these basics I’d be obliged.

For instance I was reading about the Hegel H360 integrated amp that Magico’s Alon Wolf recommended for their A3’s. The review mentioned they were a Class A/B amp, another person commented Class A’s were better, and a third person said he didn’t care for Class D amps. What do these classes signify? 

A second question is about DACs. I generally understand their purpose of the DAC, converting a digital to an analog signal. However my only digital device, the Marantz SA 8005 already has a DAC, ostensibly of good quality. The turntable ’s Ortofon cartridge would not need to play through a DAC, I presume. Would I bypass the CD’s players DAC if I purchase the higher quality Hegel H360 integrated amp?. Or could I find an equivalent integrated amp without an integral DAC?

On the other side of the equation I understand the turntable’s cartridge cannot play through the Hegel without first going through a phono stage. My old Phase Linear 4000 preamp you just plugged the turntables RCA cables into the back of the preamp and you were done. What’s that about? Do they make equivalent integrated amps to the Hegel H360 with integrated phono stages already in place, so I can just plug my turntable in as I’ve been able to do before. The amps don’t seem to be well integrated at all if you have to add a pricey phono stage to make them work, and end up having an extra DAC. That’s just me whining.

Third question is what are monoblocks, how are they used, and what are their advantages to a system? They were used at one of my speaker auditions.

I figured out the answer to what amplifier damping was myself, so I’m sparing you that one, but what does the term impedance mean? I keep coming across that.

Thank goodness I don’t have to figure out the cabling nightmare yet. Thanks for any help.

Mike
skyscraper
Most people here are talking about getting an amplifier that your speakers will DEMAND. When you invest a lot of money on speakers, you want to get the best performance out of them that's possible. Therefore if you have speakers like the Magico, that are really hungry for power, you will need an amplifier that is up to the task. I would take the advice given above and start learning about the classes of amplifiers, as that makes a difference in how much power and current you will need. Speakers that are very low ohms (2) need a great deal of power. Speakers that are (4) ohm need a little less, but still more power than (6) ohm speakers. With a (4) ohm speaker you will need more power than an (8) ohm speaker. Also the sensitivity of your speakers is something should factor into how much power you need and how loud you will be able to play your speakers. Sensitivity measurements of 88 dB are about average. Anything below 84 dB is considered rather poor sensitivity. The sensitivity of 92 dB or higher is very good and should be sought after.(Mostly because many amplifiers can drive higher sensitivity speakers).To get the best performance from your Magico speakers you may have to seek out a very good amp, that can produce a lot of current and a lot of power. Anyone here, correct me if I am wrong....

Contrary to Luxman’s published specs, the L-590AX puts out in excess of 90wpc into 8ohms, not 30. It’s not purely Class A, they seem to have fibbed a bit. Presumably, it’s Class A for the first 30W. It’s far from "low powered". The phono stage is also more than a mere afterthought.  http://www.navratilaudio.cz/novinky/Luxman_L590AXII_HFW.pdf
Skyscraper;  you are asking for a lot of explanation in your question and I'm sure that you will get a lot too.  However it likely will be overwhelming, so I suggest that you give yourself a subscription to both: THE ABSOLUTE SOUND and stereophlle magazines.  They are both excellent with respect to introducing you to a wide range of high quality  audio equipment, in various price ranges.  Also, as a subscriber you can go on line and review many back issues.  It can really be an education for you and you ought to enjoy the process.  To partially answer you original question, however an integrated amp combines a basic amp with a preamp.  Some include a phone preamp, as well; some include a DAC.  Your best bang for the buck is to stick with those that have all three.  Although I recognize that DAC technology is evolving current DACs in the PARASOUND HINT or the NUPRIME IDA 16, or the new HEGELs are all better than the one you are using and you will probably never want a newer one. Oh, one parting thought: don't be afraid of class D amps.  They have come a long way from those of years past.  HEGEL uses them, NAD, NUPRIME, and Rogue do as well.  Enjoy the journey.
Ignore all specific recommendations. They aren't worth the bits to transmit them, little more than fan boy ravings.

NEVER forget you are building a system. You could assemble the 'best' of everything and still have the sonic equivalent of the Texas Chainsaw Massacre.

Well designed integrateds offer the advantage of internal connections without all the sonic garbage introduced by cables and connectors.

99% do not understand the power relationship. All other things being equal, which they NEVER are, 400w only plays 6db louder than 100w. 400 sh.tty watts are far worse than 40 great ones. Damping factor is irrelevant.

Impedance [Z] is largely misunderstood and misreported. Mathematically Z is the product of LCR https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_impedance As used by speaker manufacturers, it has little grounding in reality. Ideally it should be quoted as a range, Min Z @ Hz, Max Z @ Hz. What most manufacturers report is meaningless. They may approximate the average, something close to the minimum but almost never the frequency. To be useful, you would also need to know an amplifier's capability to supply current at the specified Hz and Z and every other combination within the frequency band. Most power specs are on a resistor. Some are on a simulated speaker load. NONE are on an actual speaker playing wide range program material.

Ravings about Class are audio prejudice. As my dear old Great Gran was wont to say "There's good and bad where ever you go. And Bad and Worse in Ireland." Class D maybe exactly what you need to breathe life into the A3s without taking out a mortgage.

Bonne chance...

P.S. - the 8005 is a well designed, excellent sounding unit. Marantz paid a great deal of attention to power supply linearity and topology, something that can pay huge dividends.

For anyone interested in power supply Z linearity and how it affects the music, there is a very interesting thread on diyAudio https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/143539-look-lm317-lm337-regulators.html
Post removed