I can commiserate about trying to hook up a pair of speakers and subs on the A7xe. Those binding posts make adding 2 pairs of cables a bit of work, but, it can be done.
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Thoughts on wireless subwoofer.
Dear @uberwaltz: I have not experience with wireless subs. Now and due that your speker woofers crossover 300hz you need to use an external good quality crossover ( Bryston is an example or Pass. ) to relief the main speakers woofers from 80hz and down. Using the speakers full range along the subs is a big mistake and not the way to go because the main target when using subs in a stereo music home audio system is to improve the IMD lowering it at much we can and when you make what I said you are achieving that critical target and then your system sound will improves in a huge way putting you nearer to the live event. You need two powered subs connected in true stereo fashion. If the powered subwoofers comes with a good quality high pass filter then you don't need an external crossover that normally has better quality performance. Either way you need to contact Mr. Jansen ( I think is the Ayre owner, maybe I'm wrong. ) and explain him the trouble you are experienced and see which are his advise. Maybe a new integrated amp because yours has at least 10 years was designed. In the other side maybe the trouble could comes from a not very good subs design you have, I can't know for sure. Regards and enjoy the MUSIC NOT DISTORTIONS, R. |
Raul Thank you Unfortunately I have already ordered a Martin Logan Dynamo 700w sub. But I do see your point exactly on cutting the lower freq to my main speakers as you would in a ht rig with small sat speakers say. I can see how the combined low freq from both the mains and the sub may make it harder to integrate the sub seamlessly. I did speak to Ayre before pursuing this and part of the problem is the way the ax7e is built as a fully balanced unit and it just doen not play nice with some subs depending on THEIR grounding design. There has been a couple of important threads on this previously which Almarg was kind enough to make me aware of. If he had not and I had just connected a sub up using the speaker terminals as common practice would have you do so I could have actually seriously damaged the Ayre internally. See this... https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/subwoofer-for-ayre-ax-7e So I will try the wireless approach although it does mean I have full output at the tape loop output but I could likely find a unit to insert inbetween that that would turn it to a variable output. Only just thought of that and I am sure something must already exist for that function, to take a fixed rca output and give you the option to vary it. Google search time! But thank you Raul. |
interesting few options for altering the fixed output from the ayre to sub http://www.volutone.com/CALRAD-10-105-STEREO-INLINE-LINE-LEVEL-AUDIO-ATTENUATOR-P8778.aspx https://www.parts-express.com/cat/line-level-attenuators/1916 Or maybe even a passive preamp? https://www.amazon.com/d/Audio-Component-Preamplifiers/Nobsound-Fully-balanced-Single-ended-Pre-ampl... Have a few options for sure but first need get the sub here and test it to even see if my first theory holds any water. |
Hi Uberwaltz, I’ve just noticed this thread. Thank you kindly for the mentions. I’m uncertain as to whether or not the wireless connection to the sub you’ve ordered will work ok or not. I see that the wireless transmitter is powered by an AC adapter, which I assume is a wallwart type of device. So depending on its design, and perhaps on whether it has a three-prong AC plug or a two-prong plug, there may or may not be a ground loop issue or some other ground-related issue arising between it and the Ayre. If there is, and as a result the transmitter sees a hum component on its RCA inputs, presumably it would faithfully transmit the hum to the wireless receiver. Should that occur, though, I’m thinking that a line-level audio isolation transformer connected between the Ayre and the wireless transmitter, or perhaps even between the Ayre and the RCA inputs on the sub itself, could very well be a solution. At a low price point ($60) this may be a solution: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/381596-REG/ART_DTI_DTI_Transformer_Isolator.html Its datasheet: http://www.artproaudio.com/framework/uploads/2018/06/ss_dti.pdf A Jensen transformer may also be a solution, albeit at a higher price point (~ $250): https://www.cs1.net/products/jensen_transformers.htm Hopefully neither of those things will prove to be necessary, though. Looking forward to your findings. Best regards, -- Al |