Has anyone tried these stunning new CPT power cord?
I used an 8 port connector for each neutral, hot, and ground. The only way I can think of to avoid the connector is to strip off a long enough section of the jacket of each wire so that you can twist each group together and solder them, then make sure you wrap it good with some electrical tape to avoid contact. |
The best way is to connect an O ring to each home run wire by a combo crimp/solder. Gather each live and stack them on a 1/4 thick bolt tighten the top nut and all the O-rings will be tightly pressed onto each other for a great connection. Use these insulated bolts and bolt each one down to the bottom of your unit. Use one for live, one for neutral and one for ground. Very safe, robust and professional. These connections are there for life! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLYS5FK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc... You should use good quality O rings. These are decent. I used them and was able to terminate both top and bottom outlet home runs into one O ring since it takes up to 8 gauge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQ9BPLF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc... You can also use good quality terminal block with O ring terminations on your home runs to do much the same thing. Problem is these terminal blocks have the screw down terminations pretty close together. Those interested can look at my virtual system to see how I used a terminal block on my BPT Balanced transformer unit. Look at the last picture for a close up outside the chassis. Look at the 3rd to the last pic for the terminal block inside the chassis. My chassis is much tighter in space then your 1200 or 1800 units. I think the individual insulated bolts is the best and most professional option. The layout would be sweet! https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/6997#&gid=1&pid=29 |
