Mini-Rant: Human Fingers


I don't have a huge range of experience in this matter but in my limited experience the experience is universal:

My fingers are too large to comfortably use most speaker binding posts easily. It is always tight and tedious. Yes, my hands are big but not unusually so. No, I'm not a clumsy oaf. Quite experienced doing small delicate work in fact. This experience has bridged hi-fi to mid-fi to low-fi.

I can understand this with small or bookshelf sized speakers. But my experience is with tower speakers. I just wonder if there is a reason for this? 

My experience is similar with components. Even my amp which is a huge 100 pound deal with virtually nothing on the back but two balanced inputs and 4 binding posts. The binding positive and negative posts are very close together and hard to tighten for that reason.

Anyway, rant over. Just wondering if there is a reason for not putting enough space between binding posts to get human fingers all the way around them? 
n80
I don’t mean to be dense here, but I don’t see anything close to 1/2" or 7/16" on any of my speakers or amps that the binding post wrench will fit over to tighten. I am only bringing it up because I love the idea and agree with n80.
@rodman99999 said:

"Spade connectors do that, under what's being tightened(regardless of the application/not just Five Ways), unless one prevents it, by holding them(or the connected wire), with a fingertip, pointy pliers, etc. "

Exactly. And there is very little room in there to get your fingers or needle nose pliers to get enough purchase to prevent twisting. The cable often ends up kinked no matter what I do.

Currently my main speakers are all hooked up and not going anywhere. But, I have some decent banana plugs and I looked up the specs and they will receive all the way up to 10 AWG. So I think next time I unhook them I am going to cut the spade connectors off and put the bananas on. These use set screws but I can put some solder in there too if it seems necessary. I can't see why this would compromise SQ. I can see how it might lower the value of the cables but I have no plans to sell them anyway.
If you're switching to bananas, I'd echo reubent's recommendation of BFA-style bananas. They're much easier to connect than spades, provide a greater contact area than conventional banana plugs and the tension can be easily adjusted with a pair of needlenose pliers.

since the days of Fred & Barney, Wilma and Betty, bare wires were the way speakers used to be connected.

some are returnign to that philosophy. get in where ya fit in.

obviously where ever speaker terminals are located is where the maker figured it to be the best place for ‘them’. not us.

I find it highly doubtful adding another half inch or inch between the plus and minus poles will have any effect on anything, but making it easier for end users to deal with when adding and replacing wires.

but it is what it is, I’d not hold my breath on things changing anytime soon.

bananas are as good a way to go as any other. regardless it being on the input or output. in fact with many receivers geography on the rear panels is at a premium and bananas seem to be the right pick.

if adapters are required by choice or need, their influence on the sound is marginal, but depending, often quite distinct.

I believe bananas are my preference for reasons such as these.

I’ve a pair of towers whose terminals are not only very close to each other, but as there are two sets for bi wiring or bi amping, they are set on angled inserts which make it a real hair pulling event to put spades on all the connections. whoa.

If I indeed loved a set of spkr wires, maybe I’d opt into cutting off the spades and going with bare wires. but even using bare wire there are concerns. loosening. oxidation. shorting. breakage.

as for operating on wiring, they make tools specifically designed to strip insulation off most sizes of wires. at least those one would encounter in this hobby. they run from $10 to $25 and are at most any hardware or Adult toy Store, eg., lowes, Home depot, etc. they have dedicated ‘holes’ for inserting the wires and once closed, do a fine job of cutting thru the insulation without cutting into the conductors.

obviously, special strippers will cost more.

usually from $20 to $50 a dance.

RWV .