My approach to getting a sub to play well with my 1.6s is to cross over the sub nearly as low as possible.
When I first did the setup, I let it go for a day or so. Then I slowly, over a period of weeks turned the crossover frequency down and adjusted the level slightly.
At first with the crossover set at about 55 to 60hz, the overlap caused bloat. The bass was fat and indistinct. As I turned it down to where it is now, <40, it is much much better. The only time it lights up is when there is content that low. It fills out the lower end of string bass and timpani very well.
My room of 8 sides and very asymmetrical helps loads. The sub is on the longest wall, about 3 feet from the nearest corner. It sits next to the LH panel.
The sub? Don't laugh! It is a HSU set for max extension.
I'd be WAY surprised if this wouldn't work for the 1.7s as well, which in any successful setup now running the 1.6s, should be a drop in replacement.
When I first did the setup, I let it go for a day or so. Then I slowly, over a period of weeks turned the crossover frequency down and adjusted the level slightly.
At first with the crossover set at about 55 to 60hz, the overlap caused bloat. The bass was fat and indistinct. As I turned it down to where it is now, <40, it is much much better. The only time it lights up is when there is content that low. It fills out the lower end of string bass and timpani very well.
My room of 8 sides and very asymmetrical helps loads. The sub is on the longest wall, about 3 feet from the nearest corner. It sits next to the LH panel.
The sub? Don't laugh! It is a HSU set for max extension.
I'd be WAY surprised if this wouldn't work for the 1.7s as well, which in any successful setup now running the 1.6s, should be a drop in replacement.