Subwoofer to go with Wilson Maxx II's

Oppo BDP-83& BDP-93 low limit is 20hz.So these won't work with analog out for movies.I no they're not hi-end though.

I had Maxx 2's and a REL studio 3. Now I have Alexandrias and a pair of JL Audio F113's. My current bass is FAR superior to what I had previously. I think it is important to know what you are trying to achieve. In short, I would get a pair of appropriately sized for your room JL subs. The bass on Maxx 2 is ample and good, but there is better out there. I found that the bass could get a little loose at times. Also, they usually don't go below 30hz when they are placed into the room as most of us do. The JL's room correction will improve the linearity of your bass, and they will go lower. After you buy them (get a stereo pair) and set them up, let me know if you still think the Maxx's were going down to 20hz.

We upgraded our demo theater from a Wilson Watchdog to a JL Gotham and have not looked back! Big room, and the Watchdog did not cut it at all. It was the passive model powered by a Classe CAM600.

Maybe you should get Wilson Thor's Hammer. :)

You would not really want a Class A amp as a sub amp. they are hideously inefficient and their virtues would not be important and their vices magnified in a sub application. You need a lot of power and what the amp does outside the bass region will be largely irrelevant.

Stans on the right track. 'd' amps are a natural for sub duty. Any switching artifacts or need for a Zobel on the output are simple non-starters.

That being said, and I KNOW it is not a match or real alternative...but my HSU will easily shake the house half apart. I can make the windows shake and all the china....in the hutch and on the walls vibrate in sympathy. My sub will cleanly produce the 16hz pedal tone in the Saint Sans symphony 'with organ'.

So, sheer low frequency output is not the deal maker. No, what you need is musicality. For movies? Why NOT replace the Bag End with another? That would be a real good place to start?