Speaker crossover mod. Your advice?


I'm considering modding the crossovers of my Focal 1027s. Specifically, I am thinking about replacing the capacitor associated with the tweeter. I have received some helpful advice from another A'gon member who has done a similar mod to his crossovers (on a different model speaker from the same manufacturer).

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions from folks who have experience with this sort of thing. In particular, what sort of improvements can be achieved with this kind of mod? Any thoughts on which caps to use? Any common mistakes I should avoid? Is the whole thing a bad idea?

Thanks for your input.

Bryon
bryoncunningham
Yup; done this sort of thing often, most recently in a pair of Audio Physic Avanti IIIs. In those, the 2 caps in series with the tweeter were a 6.8uF and a 15uF. I replaced both with the highest-quality-composite cap I chose to afford, and this time I wasn't cheap. Altho the highest-value SoniCap Platinum (Teflon-film) cap Sonic Craft lists on the site is a 4uF, Glowacki had a pair of preproduction 6.8s, so I bought and installed them, and the 15uF turned into a 12uF SoniCap Gen.1 'propylene plus a 3uF Platinum. (Claity Caps were original.) Altho I'm no golden-eared audiofile the way some of my friends are, I heard MUCH-cleaner and less-edgy treble, so much so that I was able to increase the average level of listenable treble several dB. I suggest a combination such as I used or perhaps with as high a value of MultiCap RTX you choose to afford with a SoniCap Gen.1 to fill the value to the original.

What is/are the value(s) of the tweeter cap(s)?

BTW, then it's the midrange's turn. :-)
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Modifying crossovers can be very rewarding sonically. I'd suggest doing all the caps and don't forget to do the resistors.

As for what caps to use, there are many good choices to fit your wallet. Sonicap Gen I's are very good and reasonably priced. Clarity MR's are another good choice, but cost a lot more. I do not recommend Solen.

For resistors, Mills are most folks go to.

Pitfalls....make sure you have the room for new caps as most of them are going to be much larger than stock.

Some good reading, www.humblehomemadehifi dot com/Cap.html
considering you will not make any incorect wiring after upgrade its very good idea- focal react to this upgrades very good. change caps in tweeter section ad resistor in tweeter atenuation section. if yo like to play speakers loud also change bass inductors to transformer types, or transformer foil inductors. just keep exact RDC
Thanks to everyone for your input. I have two principal concerns: the plan and the execution. As for the plan...

You can see a picture of the crossover here.

At the advice of another Audiogon member, I tested some of the caps on the crossover board to determine which one is associated with the tweeter. Here is what I did: I placed one lead of a multimeter on the lead of the capacitor, and the other lead of the meter on the tweeter's positive terminal. I got measurements of .4 Ohms and 4 Ohms for the two leads of the cap labelled "Focal 4.7J 250V" in the upper right of the photo. (I am assuming that the .4 Ohms measurement is really 0 Ohms, since I get the same .4 Ohms measurement when I simply touch the two leads of the meter together with nothing in between.)

On the basis of these measurements, the Audiogon member I've been talking to concluded that the 4.7J cap is the one for the tweeter. I have no reason to doubt him, since he seems like an experienced guy, but I would like to confirm with other folks that we (mostly I) didn't miss anything. There is another cap on the crossover, labelled "Focal 3.6J 250V" that, when I performed the same test, came back with measurements of 1 Ohm and 10.5 Ohms. Could that cap have anything to do with the tweeter as well? Is replacing the one 4.7J cap all I need to do for the tweeter?

Thanks,
Bryon