Speaker crossover mod. Your advice?

Bryon, you need to remove the board and trace the schematic, at least for all devices connected in any way to the tweeter outputs. Then you'll know if you have a 1st-, 2nd-, or 3rd-order filter and if there are any resistors in the circuit, etc. I too would replace the resistors in the tweeter and MR circuits but would not replace the inductors, as they 'sound' the least compared with caps and resistors. For the latter, use Mills Wire-wound noninductive 12-Watt resistors; they're VERY reliable and sound quite good.

Do this in stages, Bryon, and help us help you to do it correctly.

I too would NOT use Solens except to replace 'lytics in the bass section.
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Thank you, Jeffrey, for your advice. I will attempt to remove the crossover board and trace it, to determine exactly what parts are in the tweeter's signal path. It may take me a day or two to get the time to do it. I will report back when it's done.

Bryon

...and trace the MR section(s) too. Caps and resistors in series with that driver(s) definitely add bad stuff to and subtract good stuff from the music.

BTW what do you think your speakers are worth, generally?

Just tonite I finished the covers for the Avanti outboarded crossover boards.

http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k220/jeffreybehr/Avanti%20IIIs/Overallfroml-rear_1280w.jpg
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Don't really have much of an idea what they are worth. The original MSRP was $8k. They were heavily discounted toward the end of their production run, when I bought them (new) for around $5.5k. That was roughly a year ago.

I looked at your outboard crossovers. Nice!

Bryon

I have removed the crossover from the speaker. Here is a link to the photos I took:

Focal 1027 crossover

I don't really know how to interpret what I'm seeing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bryon